I've had a little extra time just to myself, so work on the navy wool is going very quickly. It is also fast because I have made this pattern several times (never mind how many skirts I have) and I don't have to match plaids.
I've already put the zipper in the skirt. I basted the opening with bright green thread by hand, because I knew I'd never see the thread to pick it out if it was navy, and the loose weave of the fabric would make it extra difficult to pick stitches out if I machine sewed it.
The jacket really does look extra long and it is long - mid thigh. But I knew that when I chose the pattern and so far, I think I was right. I may hem the skirt up an inch higher than the plaid I just made.
I am using some polyester for the lining that was not sold as lining. It has body and substance compared with regular lining. But it is also weirdly puncture-proof. Sticking pins in it has been ridiculously difficult and even sewing by machine, I have to hold the fabric taut otherwise it pokes down into the bobbin case as the needle tries to make a dent in it. And when I cut it out with pinking shears, it cut fine but the cut edges stick together almost like they were fused. Once I start to peel them apart, it is fine - they aren't really fused. But getting a purchase on the cut edge to get the two pieces apart is like trying to open a shrink-wrapped CD case.
This jacket pattern has one-piece sleeves so I am going to put the sleeves in at the shoulder first, and then sew up the entire underarm seam. It might not be any easier in reality but it has always seemed easier to me, to put sleeves in this way, rather than setting a tube inside the armhole.