Thursday, February 07, 2008

The navy wool suit

I've had a little extra time just to myself, so work on the navy wool is going very quickly. It is also fast because I have made this pattern several times (never mind how many skirts I have) and I don't have to match plaids.
navy wool suit

I've already put the zipper in the skirt. I basted the opening with bright green thread by hand, because I knew I'd never see the thread to pick it out if it was navy, and the loose weave of the fabric would make it extra difficult to pick stitches out if I machine sewed it.
navy wool suit
The jacket really does look extra long and it is long - mid thigh. But I knew that when I chose the pattern and so far, I think I was right. I may hem the skirt up an inch higher than the plaid I just made.

I am using some polyester for the lining that was not sold as lining. It has body and substance compared with regular lining. But it is also weirdly puncture-proof. Sticking pins in it has been ridiculously difficult and even sewing by machine, I have to hold the fabric taut otherwise it pokes down into the bobbin case as the needle tries to make a dent in it. And when I cut it out with pinking shears, it cut fine but the cut edges stick together almost like they were fused. Once I start to peel them apart, it is fine - they aren't really fused. But getting a purchase on the cut edge to get the two pieces apart is like trying to open a shrink-wrapped CD case.

This jacket pattern has one-piece sleeves so I am going to put the sleeves in at the shoulder first, and then sew up the entire underarm seam. It might not be any easier in reality but it has always seemed easier to me, to put sleeves in this way, rather than setting a tube inside the armhole.


Julie/Amy Events Co-ordinators said...

Hi , i regularly read your blog, your garments are very nice, you take the extra time and it really shows. The plaid..well, turned out so nicely. Thanks for taking the time to blog.

JuliaR said...

Hi Julie and Amy, thanks for de-lurking! There are a lot of regular readers but only a few comment. I sew as a hobby and I blog to give me focus so I appreciate when someone else gets something out of this too.

Sandy said...

Can you show some detail the next time you do understitching? I've done this exactly once and I can't remember it well enough to duplicate.

Chicago Sarah said...

I think that a little shorter skirt will look stunning with the longer jacket.

JuliaR said...

Sandy, I don't think you'll see the understitching well on the navy so I suggest you go here and click on the 4th photo so you can see it large at Flickr. But the next time I understitch on something more visible than navy-on-navy, I'll try to remember to point it out then too.

Sarah, I try to follow the "rule" that says short jacket= longer skirt and vice versa. I may even take the skirt up two inches, as long as it doesn't go above my knee cap. It's a conservative suit so even though my legs are still good, I don't want the skirt to be too short.