Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Linen outfit, getting on with the sewing

Things are proceeding apace. Everything is cut out and things are going together.
linen outfit
Although I knew the jacket was unlined, it wasn't until I started sewing the two pieces of the sleeves together that I realized, it was unlined! The instructions call for using seam binding in the body of the jacket and there is a yoke and yoke facing but there is no call for finishing the raw edges of the sleeve seams. So I zigzag stitched the seams I'd already sewed, which made me think, I'd better zigzag the raw edges of the skirt as well. Normally, I do a flat fell of some sort but I don't think it will lend itself to this fabric.
linen outfit
Speaking of fabric, is linen ever nice and easy to sew. It doesn't move around or bunch up and it's not hard to puncture. It may wrinkle when you wear it but it's very pleasant to work with in the meantime. Above are the yoke and the yoke facing. I deliberately cut the facing into the non-embroidered area at the selvage so I would have less embroidery on the inside of the jacket. Not that it matters but I liked the idea of it.
linen outfit
The sleeves are 3/4 length with a V shape on the finished edge. In the instructions, it just says "sew hem in place" but since I dislike an unfinished raw edge, I decided to use some seam binding here.
linen outfit
I pinned the double-fold bias seam binding to the raw edge and stitched it on by machine, using a "fancy" stitch that did a zigzag every fourth stitch, just to be sure that I was catching the binding on the underside.
linen outfit
Here are the sleeves, wrong-side and right-side out. I hand sewed the hems up.
linen outfit
I also hand stitched the interfacing down the fold line on the jacket fronts. I chose sew-in interfacing because the pattern recommended it but also because I thought it would be best, given the natural fabric. I haven't decided yet if I will do any top stitching. The pattern doesn't call for it but sometimes, it gives a little more structure to the garment.


Charlene McGill said...

Your jacket is coming along beautifully and I love the linen fabric. You stated that you normally do a flat fell. Do you have examples of how to do a flat fell or know where I can find instruction on it?

JuliaR said...

Welcome to my blog Charlene! Flat fells are ALL over my blog. Try the following entries for visuals - some are better than others. And then just click through that garment by going to that month in the archives.

Carmen said...

Looks really, really nice Julia. Can hardly wait to see it on you!

toy said...

Hey Julia
Love the pattern on this piece of linen you are working with and the buttons, wow, wow, wow
your blog is awesome
I loved how you lined up the flowers for a more couture finish, this is a beautiful pattern and I can't wait to see more progress

JuliaR said...

Thanks Carmen and Toy!

Kenny Surtani said...

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JuliaR said...

You know "Kenny", if you are going to try to advertise on my blog, you should at least put a link that works.