Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Pockets on the raw silk

Pockets! I had forgotten about pockets until I was looking at the photo of the real Chanel jacket and saw them there. So I went and cut out pockets.
pockets on the raw silk
I used a template from another pattern and decided to line the pockets and pipe the edges. I'm using the satin for the lining, not the other stuff I'm using for the skirt. I have left a small gap where the lining is sewn to the pocket to facilitate turn it right side out when it's time.
pockets on the raw silk
I had to make some piping for around the edges of the pockets. Just sew down the cord wrapped up in the bias tape.
pockets on the raw silk
The seam allowances are a tiny bit more than the 5/8 usually used because of the width of the bias tape. I'm not concerned by this little discrepancy. I could always trim it but I think I'll just eyeball it instead.
pockets on the raw silk
I have to visualize how the cord will disappear into the pocket (into the seam allowance) once it is turned right side out.
pockets on the raw silk
First, I machine basted the piping to the pocket to fix it in place. Then I pulled the lining down to the pocket seam allowance and pinned it together, putting the pins in from the pocket, not the lining side.
pockets on the raw silk
Once I had wiggled the ends of the piping out to where they would be sewn into the seam, I sewed the pocket to the lining form the pocket side because I could use the line of basting I had already put on the fabric as a guide. I sewed slightly inside the basting to make sure the piping was not too loose.
pockets on the raw silk
I started to turn the pocket before I realized I had to trim the seam allowance. So I started over, trimmed the excess fabric and then turn the pocket through the little gap I had left.
pockets on the raw silk
Here's the pocket, turned but unpressed and the gap is still not stitched up. I have been thinking about putting trim on the outside of the pocket, across the top as they do in many of the Chanel suits but I have decided against it, thinking it will be too busy for me. I think the contrast piping is enough. I am still not sure where to place the pockets on the jacket and will have to assemble it enough so I can put it on the dummy and then figure out the best placement.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Julia, I can see that you are having tons of fun with this one. All this silk must be a dream to work with. Hope to see the finished product soon.
Heather

JuliaR said...

Heather, yes I am having fun! But this one is almost a template because the next one I make, I will have learned from this one.

Chicago Sarah said...

Oh...I get it. I was very confused about the piping and bias tape, but it looks really good in the finish- thanks for showing us!

JuliaR said...

Hey Sarah, hopefully when I put the piping around the collar and fronts, it will come to life too.

CharityinAlaska said...

I just discovered your blog and am not sure how I ever missed it! I look forward to backtracking through past archives as well as following this current fabulous project. I will be adding you to my own blog's list of sewing links as well. Thanks!

Charity

JuliaR said...

Thanks very much Charity! There are zillions of blogs out there - I'm not surprised you missed some. :)