Sunday, February 12, 2006

Pant zipper, Arm seams

I install the zipper in the pants. This pattern calls for a slightly off-set zipper on the side, where the front overlaps the back just a little bit. First, I lay the pants on the ironing board to have a look at them and remember which will be the left side when I have them on. I have also zigzag stitched the raw edges of the seam allowances where the zipper will go, as I cannot flat fell them at this point and want the raveling to be kept to a minimum.
I have ironed the seam allowances into the folds as instructed by the pattern and then I have pinned the zipper to the 1/2 inch fold first. At this point, I also notice that because I place my zippers right up with the top stops at the seam line for the facing, I have left too much space at the bottom and will correct that when I sew the zipper in.
zip 1
After I sew down the one side, I pin the second side according to the instructions. Then I check to make sure I have caught the whole seam allowance in the stitching line. I have flipped the pants inside out and am looking at where the raw edge of the seam allowance is in relation to where I will be sewing the second side.
zip 2
Back on the right side, I check the pin placement again and then proceed to sew down that line of pins on the front side of the pants (taking the pins out as I go). I make a 90 degree turn just below the metal stop at the bottom of the zipper and sew over to the seam line, thus fixing the small error that I made by putting in the zipper higher than the pattern called for.
zip 3
Back on the inside again, I check to make sure the zipper is properly in place. I have turned the right hand edge of the zipper up to show the zigzagged edge of the fabric and how I have sewed inside the raw edge so it remains inside the pant and won’t work its way out. At this point, I also finish that side seam of the pant in the modified flat fell. I wanted to have the zipper in place before I finished this seam so that I could tuck in the upper edges of the seam allowance instead of guessing where they might be before I put in the zipper.
zip 4
The next photo shows the shirt inside out, just as an exposition. I have not flat fell finished the underarm seams yet.
shirt inside
In this photo, I have sewed from the bottom edge of the shirt and down the arm seam to the wrist. Once I get to the wrist, I turn the piece 180 degrees and sew back out of the tunnel, sewing down the second side of the flat fell.
arm fell


Anonymous said...

This project is coming along very nicely!!

JuliaR said...

I have another blog entry to write and post and then I just have to hem the pants and put buttons on the shirt and I am DONE! Then I can start something I will probably wear more. I might even be done today. This is a good lesson to me to stop buying material just because it is on sale.