Monday, October 06, 2008

Red, boiled wool jacket

Everything is cut out, the interfacing applied and I have started to assemble the jacket.
red wool jacket
Here's the lining. It's polyester (most lining is that or acetate) and substantial so I think it will serve as a bit of a wind break. You won't see it unless I flash the inside of the coat but it's fun to know it's there.
red wool jacket
The jacket will be fully lined - sleeves, body, pockets.
red wool jacket
I am trying to decide how to make the back yoke. The pattern instructions call for the inner layer of the yoke to be the same fabric as the coat, so I have cut out two wool yokes. I also cut out one lining yoke on speculation. I think it will act as a wind break, sandwiched between the two wool yokes (which are more porous than the polyester lining). My conundrum is whether to put the lining on the inside layer instead, so the entire inside of the jacket is lining. Will the wool yoke drag on a sweater worn beneath the jacket? Why would the pattern makers call for the yoke to be made of wool on the inside, except for warmth? Will I screw up if I put the lining on the inside?
If no one has ever done this and I don't get any answers to my conundrum, if in doubt, I will do it the way the pattern says.
red wool jacket
Here is my assembly line for some of the small pieces. I have made the "welt" pocket flaps and they are ready to be topstitched. The things on the machine are the sleeve tabs which then need to be turned right-side-out. I parked the red thread there because I have fifteen shades of red and I am using up some brighter stuff first, before I start the shade I bought for this fabric. And that's a good reproduction of the way this red looks - nice and red, tomato red. Not the pink-red you see in some pix.
red wool jacket
Here's the welt for the pocket sewn on and there are two pieces of pocket lining that I have sewn on and tucked behind it. The slash pocket is right in the front dart - interesting.
red wool jacket
Here are all the layers for the back at the yoke. There is the back, its deep pleat, the band (folded in two) and the yoke. Six layers in two places.
red wool jacket
Here's the back from the outside, before it is pressed. Too pink by half. Onward!


Marg said...

I believe the practice of making the inner yoke out of the outer fabric comes from manufacturers doing so for 'hanger appeal'. When the garment hangs on a hanger, it looks nicer if there is a facing (or in this case, an inner yoke) which matches the outside fabric. Since you're already 'sold' on the garment, you can please yourself. I think you're right that the wool will have more 'drag' than the lining, but on the other hand the wool will give a firmer base to the neckline/collar seam as well. Probably six of one/half dozen of the other, if you know what I mean.

JuliaR said...

Thanks Marg! I had not thought about hanger appeal - that makes sense. As I get closer to sewing the lining up, I shall have to decide. Stay tuned...

Melody said...

Hi Julia,

I'm enjoying your progress. I left you an award on my blog.