Sunday, October 19, 2008

Red, boiled wool jacket

It's funny how, even after 30 years of sewing and many of those years realizing that sleeves aren't so hard, I still put off making sleeves because they used to be difficult.
red wool jacket
With a fully lined jacket, there are FOUR sleeves! And these are slightly different, in that they have a pleat at the top and a clip on the sides. Halfway between the top of the shoulder and the notch, there is a spot where you sew a retaining line of stitching and then you clip in almost 5/8 of an inch to the small dot. When you split the fabric at the clip, it makes for a square spot on the outside on the finished sleeve.
red wool jacket
I haven't pressed this sleeve, nor have I unpicked the basting for the pleat, but you can see where the seam goes square on the front there.
red wool jacket
Here's what the back looks like, before the sleeves were put on. So cute with the pleats! And you can see I have marked with white thread, the small dots on the sleeve seam allowance, where they will be clipped for that square spot.
red wool jacket
I decided to use the wool yoke in the back for warmth but I also put the lining fabric over it, for a uniform inside, non-stick finish, as well as additional warmth.
red wool jacket
Here's the lining all put together. There is no extra band on the inside, like there is on the finished back outside. Now I "just" have to put the outside and the lining together!

4 comments:

Sew Passionista said...

This is really lovely,the colour and the style. I love the lining. Isn't it fun to use a print for a lining. I don't mind sewing in the sleeves on a garment but I absolutely hate sewing the sleeves to the lining!

JuliaR said...

Thanx S.P.! I love having fun details on a garment, even if they are hidden. And you are right - I hate sewing the sleeves with fabric like polyester! However, I don't follow the usual old fashioned instructions for lining sleeves and I don't sew them on by hand. I just make the entire lining part on the machine like the jacket part and then put them together once I have "two jackets".

Carmen said...

That jacket is looking really good!!

JuliaR said...

Dog, but it is taking a very long time! I finally tried it on and it is SHORT so I need to reconcile wearing long sweaters and things tucked in. But I got buttons yesterday! More on that anon...