Sunday, December 17, 2006

Winter coat interlining

My sewing machine is back! I finally called on Friday after it had been gone more than a week and was told it was "next in the line". Sure enough, they called on Saturday to say it was fixed and I prevailed upon a different friend to drive me over there to get it. In fact, the weather was so mild, I could have gone on my bike with the trailer but since he was willing to drive me, I took him up on it.
she's back!
Here's my baby on the stairs to go up. It turned out that the bobbin case was the culprit - it needed an adjustment because every so often (every six inches of sewing), the needle would strike a part of the bobbin case when it went down into the bobbin area and so break the thread that way. I have now sewed for a while and there have been no broken threads! I am so relieved. It was really getting to me, I can tell you.
frayed fabric
Here's a close up of the fabric and you can see how loosely woven and ravelly it is. (My spell check didn't recognize "ravelly" so I looked it up and it is a word - just not very well known.) This is why I am backing each piece with lining - or interlining we shall call it. Someone suggested in the comments that I consider lining it with flannel to make it warmer and that is certainly an option. However, flannel would also make the coat heavier and more bulky and I thought I would go for a lighter weight option. I can always add a sweater underneath on a colder day for warmth. And I planned this coat to be worm only to about minus 10C.
tailor's tacks
When I started cutting out the pieces, I thought that I would have a hard time making notches and that chalk marking wouldn't show up for the dots. So I made some (elaborate for me) tailor's tacks for both notches and dots. Then, when I cut out the interlining pieces, I realized that I could easily cut notches and make chalk marks on that fabric so all the tacks were for naught.
interfaced pieces
Here are all the pieces with fused interfacing - the front, front facing and both collar sections. I think the main seams I will have to trim will be the shoulder seams and I will use a zigzag on those and hope the threads won't eventually pull away.
I went through my stash of linings and found several pieces in the same colourways as the coat. The grey piece on the far right is what I am using to line the coat itself.
For the interlining (which will not be seen) I ended up getting the two back pieces out of the mauve, the side fronts and side backs out of the blue and the sleeves out of a pale green. I have almost finished sewing all those pieces together and it is a pain. The loosely woven wooly stuff moves all over the place and seems to grow as I move down one edge of it. I have to keep stuffing the excess under the needle so the fabric piece doesn't end up a foot longer than the interlining piece. But it is almost done so I can say I've been successful.

Once I have finished attaching the interlining to the two backs, two sleeves and four sides, then I can start putting the coat itself together.


Linda said...

So glad you got your machine back. I would be nuts not being able to sew. I love your fabric. Great colors. I bet it is ravelly!

Sandy said...

Yea for you! I'm glad your machine is back and fixed!

ML said...

Ahhhhh!!! I can't wait to see the jacket. I'm so glad you got your machine fixed and it's back home safe and sound.

Anonymous said...

Julia, so glad your machine is back and running. I kept thinking if only you lived within reach from me....oh what fun that would be!LOL.
I have been meaning to tell you about KASHA lining. I have only just learnt about it myself. Apparently, it is used in garments where extra protection from the 'elements' is desired.
Also for your next project, please consider using silk organza for underlining. Silk will keep out the cold and is lightweight as you know.
Sorry about this late 'revelation'....LOL..but I have been unwell but am now feeling better.
Love to watch your projects emerging.
Heather (shesewssilkknots)

JuliaR said...

Thanks Linda! When Peter was late coming home last night, I got a whole LOT more done. New blog post coming up as soon as I do some cooking, put up and trim the tree, and go mark an exam! i.e. maybe tomorrow. :)

Sandy, I am so happy my machine is back AND working, I can't express it strongly enough.

ML, thanks for your constant readership, I really appreciate knowing that you are out there.

Heather, thanks for the tips. I would consider silk organza if I spent any money on the other fabric but I have fallen into the bad habit of buying inexpensive fabric and cannot justify spending more money on the underpinnings. Maybe if (when) I get this job I've applied for, I will spend more time and money on each project, instead of making many cheap projects. Glad to hear you are feeling better.