I have finally managed to spend 30 minutes sewing on this jacket! Between my last entry and this one, I made a dress for a funeral and then I also sewed the extensions of fabric onto the bedspread so it would fit my new mattress. I suppose I could have blogged the navy dress (I decided black was too much, especially for a summer funeral) but I had to get it done in record time so I just put my head down and sewed.
Today (so far) I sewed the underarm seams.
After sewing the seam normally, I turned the jacket inside-out and pressed the seam open.
The annoying difference in colour is dependent on whether the flash goes off or not. This photo shows that even though I have pressed the seam open on the inside, it is not really flat on the outside. I press it again with the clapper and then again from the inside, to make the modified flat fell.
On the inside, I use my clapper to try to get a crease in the folded over seam allowance. This is tough for this fabric - it doesn't want to crease. Still, I don't want to use pins so I am creasing as much as humanly possible.
Once I've got both sides of the seam allowance pressed, I turn the jacket right side out again and start to sew the fell. I'm using my zipper foot and I am starting to sew down the right side, up from the bottom of the jacket. You can see I'm heading toward the armpit where the folds have already sprung open.
As I approach sections of the folded over seam allowance that have come unfolded, I stop - with the needle DOWN in the fabric so it doesn't move! - and fold the section back under and proceed, very slowly.
I continue sewing down the one side of the sleeve until I get to the end of the sleeve. This is the fun and tricky part, making sure you don't sew anything else that might get folded under the sleeve as you effectively sew down into the tube that the sleeve becomes. Here I am at the cuff end of the sleeve. All the wrinkled pile of fabric around the needle is the rest of the sleeve.
Now I have turned the sleeve around 180 degrees and am about to start sewing back out of it, down what was the left hand side of the seam.
Here is what the entire underarm seam looks like when finished. Now do the second sleeve...