Monday, June 30, 2008

We interrupt this for a message from our sponsor (me)

Last day of June and my Dad's 80th birthday! Happy birthday, Dad (even though I am pretty sure you are not reading my sewing blog). I am making up a batch of shirts (you can never have too many white shirts) and may post a little about it but since they are just shirts, I thought I would direct traffic over to my other blog. I have been writing about our trip to France over on my guru blog and I am enjoying the writing, as well as re-reading. If you want to start at the beginning, you have to go to the archives and start at May 31 and then read forward. Here is the May 31 entry but then you'll have to get into the blog and move through the entries anyway so you might as well just go to May in the archives. Or whatever -- you can figure it out, I know.

If you click on most of the pix, they are at my Flickr site, so you can go there just to look at the slideshow. Some pix, I took from Peter's Flickr site but those I tended to just link to like this. If you really want to be dazzled, go to his sets at Flickr and enjoy.

Happy Canada Day for tomorrow!

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Silk top

While I was (still am) thinking about the buttons for the linen jacket, I made the silk top.
silk top
I used a modified Butterick 4056 pattern. I found when I made this top the first time, that it had a wide enough neckline that it didn't need a seam and a button at the neck opening in the back.
silk top
I could cut both the back and the front on the fold and modify the back neck facing. I decided I would use a facing and not just some self-bias tape because I thought the interfaced facing would give the neck more structure.
silk top
It's an extremely simple top, even with the facing. You can see a little bit, how there is a sheen to the right side of this beautiful silk, when you look at the facing here, contrasted with the top itself which is wrong side out on the table. I also finished the seams by sewing a simple zigzag stitch and trimming the excess material.
silk top
After only about an hour from start to almost finish, the top is done except for the hems. I have decided to hand sew the cap sleeve and bottom hems, to give a higher tone, a more couture finish, to the top. This lovely silk demands it. But I have to wait until it cools down because I don't want to stain the silk with my sweat.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Linen outfit, jacket

On to finishing touches. I am hemming the skirt tonight but that's a simple proposition.
linen jacket
I have put on all the seam binding and hemmed up the jacket. Looking good!
linen jacket
Now I just have to figure out the buttons. The three I have are different from each other, with one having a dark brown spot on it, one medium and the third light.
linen jacket
I have to decide what order to place them. Should the darkest one be at the top, in the middle or at the bottom? Not a crisis either way, I am thinking.
linen jacket
I have discovered that the top buttonhole will have to go right through the middle of an embroidered flower. Nothing I can do about that now. I have made an experimental buttonhole through a flower and it's not bad. But I wonder if there might be anything else I could do?
linen jacket
After I made the sample buttonhole, I pinned it on the jacket, put it on Miss Pink, and stuck a button into it, to get a feel for the thing. I also have to calculate where I want to sew the buttonhole, because when done up, the buttons will stop at the shank (or where they are sewed) and I don't want them overlapping the edge of the front of the jacket. So the buttonhole has to stop about 1.5 cm from the edge of the jacket, which looks kind of far back to me, when the jacket is unbuttoned.

Friday, June 20, 2008

Linen outfit, jacket

The sleeves are on!
linen jacket
After I sewed them on, I finished that seam with bias tape. It was kind of fiddly work. There were places along the seam where the fabric was several layers thick (at the back yoke seams) where I had to pin the bias to the inside and then pin it around the outside too. With pins on the upper and lower sides of the seam as it is feeding through the sewing machine, you have to go slowly and carefully so as not to jam your needle on all those pins, or catch the pins under the plate where the feed dogs are. (That unfinished looking seam on the above photo is the zigzagged one inside the sleeve.)
linen jacket
It doesn't look too beautiful but it is on the inside of the jacket and won't be seen except as a flash when I take the jacket off.
linen jacket
Somebody asked in a previous comment if I'd lengthened the jacket (no) and if the back was longer than the front (also no). This photo sort of shows that the jacket is the same length all around. (The blue top on Pinky isn't on straight.) And the jacket is pretty short - it will just stop at my waist when hemmed - but that's the style so I didn't change the length.
linen jacket
Here's the front with sleeves. I have turned one up just to see what it might look like because of the V detail on the bottom of the 3/4 sleeve.
linen jacket
Here it is from the back, with one sleeve turned up. The pattern doesn't call for any turning up of the sleeves but I didn't shorten them when I made them and they are a tad longish. Next time I make this, I will shorten the sleeve pattern piece by about 3/4 of an inch. My arms are not weirdly short and they don't look funny but I usually have to take up regular length sleeves and I wondered what would happen with the 3/4 sleeve if I didn't take it up, since it was short to begin with. It's all about proportion.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Linen outfit, jacket

This just goes to show that even after sewing for 30 years, you can still miss stuff. You know how I mentioned that there was nothing in the instructions about seam finishing so I zigzagged the sleeve seams? And yet, the notions list called for seam binding? So I looked at the main instructions, before you get into the specifics of the garment and sure enough, there it was: " finish the raw edges of each seam as you make it." So I should have done the sleeves but I'm not worried that I didn't. In fact, it probably adds less bulk to the sleeve by just zigzagging the raw edge. And you never see in the insides of the sleeves even when you take the jacket off. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
linen jacket
Here's how nicely the edge of the facing is finished now. And I didn't use a fancy stitch - I just stayed Very close to the edge of the seam binding and sewed carefully.
linen jacket
Now that I've attached the collar and the yoke facings, I see that part of the shoulder seam will be visible when I take the jacket off. But I decided Not to finish the one little bit of it by using seam binding. Instead, I simply folded under the raw edge and stitched it down. Now it's finished but practically invisible.
linen jacket
Here's the yoke and the pleated back, from the inside. I have put a temporary line of basting stitches across the middle of the pleats to keep them all together while I work with the garment. When it is time to hem the jacket, I will take the stitching out.
linen jacket
Here, I am sewing down the yoke facing on the inside. That bit of pink is a chalk mark for where the pleats go. I normally like to machine sew down things like facings but I decided to go more "couture" for this jacket. When I put my mind to it, I can sew with very nice, tiny stitches. Of course, this linen is very forgiving.
linen jacket
Here's the front so far, minus sleeves. Cute!
linen jacket
And the back! I may not want to ever sit down in a chair with a back while wearing this jacket. Not only would it wrinkle the pleats, no one could see how adorable they are!

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Linen outfit, getting on with the sewing

Things are proceeding apace. Everything is cut out and things are going together.
linen outfit
Although I knew the jacket was unlined, it wasn't until I started sewing the two pieces of the sleeves together that I realized, it was unlined! The instructions call for using seam binding in the body of the jacket and there is a yoke and yoke facing but there is no call for finishing the raw edges of the sleeve seams. So I zigzag stitched the seams I'd already sewed, which made me think, I'd better zigzag the raw edges of the skirt as well. Normally, I do a flat fell of some sort but I don't think it will lend itself to this fabric.
linen outfit
Speaking of fabric, is linen ever nice and easy to sew. It doesn't move around or bunch up and it's not hard to puncture. It may wrinkle when you wear it but it's very pleasant to work with in the meantime. Above are the yoke and the yoke facing. I deliberately cut the facing into the non-embroidered area at the selvage so I would have less embroidery on the inside of the jacket. Not that it matters but I liked the idea of it.
linen outfit
The sleeves are 3/4 length with a V shape on the finished edge. In the instructions, it just says "sew hem in place" but since I dislike an unfinished raw edge, I decided to use some seam binding here.
linen outfit
I pinned the double-fold bias seam binding to the raw edge and stitched it on by machine, using a "fancy" stitch that did a zigzag every fourth stitch, just to be sure that I was catching the binding on the underside.
linen outfit
Here are the sleeves, wrong-side and right-side out. I hand sewed the hems up.
linen outfit
I also hand stitched the interfacing down the fold line on the jacket fronts. I chose sew-in interfacing because the pattern recommended it but also because I thought it would be best, given the natural fabric. I haven't decided yet if I will do any top stitching. The pattern doesn't call for it but sometimes, it gives a little more structure to the garment.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Linen outfit

It takes me a while to get comfortable enough with the fabric to start cutting it. The linen was draped over my cutting table for a few days before I started eyeballing it to see what would be best. The flowers are obviously directional so which way was "up" was no problem.
linen layout
I started with the two front pieces of the jacket. As usual, I am cutting one piece at a time. I decided to focus on the place where the facing folded, as opposed to centre front.
linen layout
My index finger is pointing down the line where the fold will be. I choose this line because there was almost no embroidery along it. I didn't want the fabric to fold over a flower and have a big bump there.
linen layout
You may have to click on the above photo to make sense of it by going to Flickr and looking at the notes. I have cut out one jacket front and have laid it face down on the fabric which is right-side-up. I have also folded over the facing part on the jacket from so that I get the same non-embroidered part on the fabric along the foldline, for the other jacket front.
linen layout
Here are the two jacket fronts, cut out, with the facings folded back under them. They look pretty much the same, thank goodness.

Friday, June 13, 2008

Linen outfit

I've ironed the linen and it looks great. I took out and ironed the pattern pieces for the jacket and noticed for the first time that not only are the sleeves "below elbow" (or three quarter) but they have a little V-detail on the hem which is nice. The 3/4 length is even nicer because then I don't have to wonder how much to take them up for my short arms.
linen outfit
Now I am comparing skirt pattern pieces. I am using a New Look pattern (#6705) I have had for some years. I have only made the top before, with its faux-Mandarin collar.
linen outfit
Then I am superimposing the pattern pieces for that skirt I always make on top of the new pattern, to make sure that it will fit width-wise but also that it works for length. I lined up the marks that say "natural waistline" and the New Look skirt is only a few inches higher in the waist so it won't be like a giant sash or something. And it doesn't have a waistband either, but uses petersham or grosgrain ribbon for the facings.
linen outfit
The New Look pattern calls for a side zipper and a side slit, so the back is cut on the fold. I am going to change that so I get a back zipper and a back vent. I think the vent will look more formal than a side slit. I also plan to line the skirt, even though the fabric is thick enough that I probably won't need to. But a skirt hangs better when it is lined and it sticks to hose is it isn't lined. By lining it, it will look more formal and work under all leg situations.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Linen outfit

I want to thank everyone for their great guesses as to what the ceramic cigale was for. I think it is too small to put water and flowers in but the small hole is probably for hanging it up. Maybe for silk flowers, especially because the lack of glaze on the underside would allow water to seep out. I think it would need a second main hole (not just the hanging-up hole) for it to be a flute. But anyway, it's a fun souvenir!

After I posted the last post, I got really sick with some stupid but virulent cold virus. It even gave me a temperature of 101F (38.5C)! I couldn't even read, I felt so crummy - all I could do was watch tv and that was no joy, I can tell you. So I've been thinking about my next project and you probably won't be surprised, but it doesn't involve Provencal fabrics!
new project
I have no idea if I am going to get this particular job interview that I really, really want but if I do get a call soon, I decided I wanted a new, summer interview outfit. My wool outfits are great but way too warm, especially with this heat we've been having.

So today I had to bike over to have my annual medical check-up and I knew Darrell Thomas was having a sidewalk sale so I carried on after the medical to Darrell's and shopped. And I found some linen. Now, I have always been wary of linen, being small and looking like an unmade bed when wrinkled. But my friend Carmen loves the stuff. And there were some comments made over on A Dress A Day's packing hints entry that have made me rethink linen. Plus, I found this stuff on sale for only $19.99 a meter and figured I could NOT go wrong.
Vogue jacket pattern
I am going to make this adorable jacket (Vogue V2956) with the swing back and a high-waisted skirt that will go to about mid-calf. In the first photo, I also show some cream coloured sanded silk that I am going to make into a simple top for under the jacket. You can't tell from the photo but the cream silk looks good enough to eat, it is so lush.

I am hoping it will be like lighting a cigarette and having the bus arrive. By making this outfit, I will get the call for the interview. (I think I wrote that before, in an entry on making an "interview suit" but what the heck - I'm eternally hopeful.)

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Provencal fabrics

Here are the fabrics I bought in Arles.
Provencal fabrics
I bought about 2 meters of each except for the small prints on the right - the ones that coordinate with the stripes on the right. I bought 4 meters of those because I had in mind that I might make placements and napkins with them and so I needed two sides to the mats and napkins to match one of the sides. The four fabrics on the right strike me as essentially Provencal, with their patterns and rich colours.

I also bought all of the fabrics except the two on the left at one shop in Arles and they cost 9 Euros per meter. I bought the two on the left at the Saturday market in Arles for 6 and 7 Euros per meter and they seem a little less substantial than the slightly more expensive ones. Also, I bought them first, before I went to the one shop. I am pleased with them but I could have bought more, I am sure. I think I got a little less of the market fabric so I got about 19 meters in all.

To answer Heather's question from the previous comments, I carried them home in our back packs! We are allowed 12 kilos for one carry-on piece of luggage and when I left Canada, mine weighed 7 kilos and Peter's weighed 8. When we came back, they each weighed almost 10 kilos but we were still under the limit. Amazing what you can do when you find a laundromat and do two washes in two weeks. Of course, in most of the photos of me in France I am wearing the same yellow jacket! But you can't have everything. The weather was quite nice, even if it did rain a little here and there and it was warmer than it is at home right now. We went down to 3C last night and are only getting up to about 17C today, but in Provence, it was over 20C every day.
ceramic cigale
After I spent so much at the fabric store, I saw the woman who cut my fabric put a wrapped thing into the bag as a bonus or treat but I didn't think to look at it until I got home. It is a ceramic "cigale" or cicada, which has become a symbol of Provence. You see them everywhere and they are quite attractive, even if they are insects. The thing is, I can't figure out what function mine may have.
ceramic cigale
It is hollow and fairly large but it doesn't stand up on its end.
ceramic cigale
Underneath, there is another small hole as well as the large one where the "mouth" would be and it is unglazed on the "belly". So if anyone knows, let me know!

Other than place mats, I really haven't thought what I might make with all this fabric. Most of the things already made up were household items and not clothing. There were some very cute little girls' dresses made with this fabric but no clothes for grown-ups, except for the cowboy shirts. Apparently, the Gardians of the Camargue wear shirts made from these prints, although I didn't see any actually being worn while I was on a "safari" there. So I am planning to wash and dry it and hang it over the railing along with the red linen I got as a present, and try to think what shall I do with it all.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

I'm back!

Great time! Will expound on the subject over at my other blog, some time soon. In the meantime, I learned some more (clothing) lessons on travelling and will write about them somewhere.
Here are some outfits (there may be notes on them over at Flickr, if you want to click on them and go there):
Outfits I made that I wore in France
The yellow jacket and brown skirt. Great skirt pattern, very comfortable and only blows up in a very strong wind, like we had that day in Avignon.
Outfits I made that I wore in France
The red polyester jacket and print skirt (same pattern as the brown one). The only bit of polyester I took with me (other than convertible MEC pants) but it never wrinkles and looks good.
Outfits I made that I wore in France
The yellow jacket with the red print skirt. The skirt has some yellow in it and I thought they went well together. I think I might be adjusting my bra. :)
France 2008
The same yellow jacket with the other print skirt. It brightened up a rainy day. The reason I am speaking with these nice Parisiennes is because the one nearest me has an 8 week old chocolate Labrador puppy. She was so soft! The dog, I mean.
Outfits I made that I wore in France
The brown safari jacket, standing in front of Provencal fabrics. I got a few yards at this market but then I got 16 yards at a store later. Pix of those soon!

Monday, May 12, 2008

Ready to rock 'n roll (almost)

safari jacket
I'll wear this on the plane with pants, I think. Warmer on the legs than a skirt. Now to pack!

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Brown outfit done!

Whew!
brown jacket
I have to cut the buttonholes open and sew on the buttons but I have time to do that tomorrow morning. The skirt I finished earlier today. So my brown outfit can go travelling with me! I bought this fabric for the colour and because it was a substantial cotton with a touch of Lycra but with its peached finish, I am surprised how much like faux suede it looks. It's my neutral with all the bright colours I am planning to pack. Of course, once I start packing and see how little space I have, things may change.

Thursday, May 08, 2008

"safari" jacket
Peter came home as I was toiling away and snapped this photo for me. Why is my face always so red? Anyway, I was putting the pocket flaps on. I think it's an optical illusion that the jacket looks so long, but time will tell. The skirt is about half done. I may get this finished yet!

The brown outfit

I'm doing my assembly line kind of sewing, where I pin together as many things as possible and then run them all through at once, so I don't even cut the threads between pieces until they're all sewed. Once I amass a pile of sewed pieces that need ironing before I can attach them to other pieces, then I turn them if they need turning right side out and iron them all at once too. So far I have done the four pockets, their flaps, the collar, the front facings and four tiny darts in the jacket fronts. I could have done the sleeve vents but I forgot. No time for pix! But later, maybe.

Wednesday, May 07, 2008

Yellow jacket finished!

Well, I guess it's like watching water boil. Nothing happens for the longest time and then suddenly, there it is!
yellow jacket
I am happy with how it turned out, collar issues notwithstanding. I had to whip-stitch where the collar joins the body to cover up the "issues" but I can't even see it now. The sleeves are about 1/2 inch too long but so what, it's a casual jacket.

Now I have cut out the brown fabric. I am making the safari jacket with 4 pockets and long sleeves but no belt, and the flippy summer skirt that I have made several times now. I won't have to wear a slip with the skirt as the cotton is quite substantial. I think it's good that it also has a little bit of Lycra in it too. If I can get these made by Monday, I'll take them on the trip!

Yellow jacket

I am not making much progress!
yellow jacket
Here, I have put the sleeves on. Now I have also added the cuffs. But when I went to put the collar on, I didn't read the instructions and did it "my way" instead and now I am having issues with the front bands. Argh. More sewing, less talking!

Monday, May 05, 2008

Yellow jacket

red coat
I am working away on the yellow jacket but on Friday, I wore the reversible coat I made a while back. I haven't worn it since I made it because it was too tight (it looks like it fit in the original pictures but it really was too tight)! Since I have been working out however, it now fits. Peter snapped this photo on Friday after work. The background is just the small mall near where we live and he chose it because the red complimented the coat.
yellow jacket
I wanted to try to get an accurate photo of the colour of the yellow and realized that it is a little lemony and makes my mouth pucker but what the heck - I like bright. These are swatches from the two skirts I will wear with it.
yellow jacket
I put this photo in because when I sewed the top of the pockets, I continued sewing a line of stitching all around where I would fold the raw edges in, to make it easier to fold accurately.
yellow jacket
Finally, this is about the best colour representation so far. It may be a tad warm. I have the sleeves on and now have to do the cuffs, collar and front bands and the buttons last.