Red linen dress

I have been cutting and cutting and marking and pinning. Now I am sewing.

I am doing my usual "assembly line" procedure, sewing all the preliminary bits like darts first. I also have to switch back and forth between red and black thread, because of the facings.

Right now, I am taking a break to imagine how I will attach the lining into the dress. The pattern does not call for lining the dress. And it calls for this one piece facing where you have to pull the two back pieces out through the shoulders, in order to turn it right side out. I think I will attach the lining to the dress, right sides together, at the shoulder, and sew the shoulders together with all four layers sandwiched together. Then I will attach the facing as instructed and pull everything out through the shoulders, following the plan. Once I have that accomplished, all the long seams (sides and back) will be free and I can sew the lining seams, right sides together, and the dress seams, right sides together, and then when they are done, the dress should be all lined nicely. It's a theory! I'll let you know how it works.

Navy linen outfit, finished

Done! Well, mostly anyway.

I have put a line of basting down the edge of the facing, to keep it from bagging at the bottom, which is often a problem. I pressed the heck out of the fronts at the facings, because one was bagging more than the other. Then, while it was still flat on the ironing board, I basted the facing to the front.

Now that the buttons and buttonholes are done, I am thinking about pick stitching (in navy) where the basting is now. I have always had "issues" with facings - they flap open, the raw edge ravels even if it is finished. So if I pick stitch the edge of the facing to the front, I won't have those problems and I won't have bagging of the front. Hopefully, the hand stitching will be a design feature, especially because the jacket is quite plain to begin with. I have tried the jacket on and it is loose and therefore very comfortable, in that it doesn't bind anywhere. While I am thinking about it, I will cut out a cycling shirt for Peter.

Silk top

While I was (still am) thinking about the buttons for the linen jacket, I made the silk top.

I used a modified Butterick 4056 pattern. I found when I made this top the first time, that it had a wide enough neckline that it didn't need a seam and a button at the neck opening in the back.

I could cut both the back and the front on the fold and modify the back neck facing. I decided I would use a facing and not just some self-bias tape because I thought the interfaced facing would give the neck more structure.

It's an extremely simple top, even with the facing. You can see a little bit, how there is a sheen to the right side of this beautiful silk, when you look at the facing here, contrasted with the top itself which is wrong side out on the table. I also finished the seams by sewing a simple zigzag stitch and trimming the excess material.

After only about an hour from start to almost finish, the top is done except for the hems. I have decided to hand sew the cap sleeve and bottom hems, to give a higher tone, a more couture finish, to the top. This lovely silk demands it. But I have to wait until it cools down because I don't want to stain the silk with my sweat.

Linen outfit, jacket

This just goes to show that even after sewing for 30 years, you can still miss stuff. You know how I mentioned that there was nothing in the instructions about seam finishing so I zigzagged the sleeve seams? And yet, the notions list called for seam binding? So I looked at the main instructions, before you get into the specifics of the garment and sure enough, there it was: " finish the raw edges of each seam as you make it." So I should have done the sleeves but I'm not worried that I didn't. In fact, it probably adds less bulk to the sleeve by just zigzagging the raw edge. And you never see in the insides of the sleeves even when you take the jacket off. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Here's how nicely the edge of the facing is finished now. And I didn't use a fancy stitch - I just stayed Very close to the edge of the seam binding and sewed carefully.

Now that I've attached the collar and the yoke facings, I see that part of the shoulder seam will be visible when I take the jacket off. But I decided Not to finish the one little bit of it by using seam binding. Instead, I simply folded under the raw edge and stitched it down. Now it's finished but practically invisible.

Here's the yoke and the pleated back, from the inside. I have put a temporary line of basting stitches across the middle of the pleats to keep them all together while I work with the garment. When it is time to hem the jacket, I will take the stitching out.

Here, I am sewing down the yoke facing on the inside. That bit of pink is a chalk mark for where the pleats go. I normally like to machine sew down things like facings but I decided to go more "couture" for this jacket. When I put my mind to it, I can sew with very nice, tiny stitches. Of course, this linen is very forgiving.

Here's the front so far, minus sleeves. Cute!

And the back! I may not want to ever sit down in a chair with a back while wearing this jacket. Not only would it wrinkle the pleats, no one could see how adorable they are!

Piping between the facing and the lining

Happy Easter all. It is nothing like Spring out there right now, at -11C or 13F. Brr! The sun is nice and bright, so at least there's that.

To put piping between the facing and the lining, I am using instructions from the March 2006 Number 123 issue of Threads Magazine (pages 77-80). You can go to www.threadsmagazine.com and look for specific issues but instead of giving you the article, they ask you to buy that issue. As it turns out, it's not too complicated but I had to make modifications and there was some confusion until I actually was turning the fabric in my hands. But I wouldn't have had the idea to do this if it weren't for Threads Magazine.

I'm putting these photos here so you can get the idea about how the magazine did the tutorial but you can't read what is written there so I don't think I'm violating copyright.

Here's what the jacket looks like at the moment. All the pieces are now together and I have even put the pockets on. I haven't quite finished the internal piping at the bottom but that's because I haven't sewed the hem which has to be done first.

Back to the beginning. First I had to attach the piping to the raw edge of the facing. That was pretty straightforward and I left a fair bit (about 2 inches from near the top of the jacket hem) at the bottom in case I needed it. I am also using a thinner cord for the piping. It is about a third of the thickness of the exterior piping cord.

The article suggests leaving the facing free at the bottom by a couple of inches and I have done that. And don't forget that you are only going to sew the piping to the lining and so you will keep the hems free.

Once I had the piping sewn on to the facing, I draped the jacket over Rose and draped the lining over it too. The lining in the photo just confuses things, sorry. But what I find interesting was how different the piping is, depending on what diagonal I cut it on. In the photo, the right side is dark pink and the left side is totally pale. There is a bit of this unevenness of colour around the collar - one side is slightly darker than the other - but I am glad that this amount of contrast is now on the inside of the jacket. I think I planned it that way. :)

Once the piping was on, I pinned and then sewed the lining to the facing. I had already assembled the lining with the sleeves and everything so it was just a matter of sewing it to the facing which was pretty straightforward.

I didn't sew the lining all the way to the bottom of the hem. In a regular lining, you are supposed to leave the bottom 6 inches free and sew it down later by hand. This is where the modifications and some confusion came in. In the Threads model, there does not appear to be that extra fold of fabric in the lining at the bottom. Because I had not modified my pattern, I still had the fold of fabric (for ease) that most lined jackets have and now I had to figure out what to do with it.

I fiddled around with keeping the fold free and sewing down to where I would be hand stitching the lining to the jacket but then I caught the very bottom of the lining in the machine stitching and realized that it wouldn't work that way and had to rip it out.

I left the lining sewed down to very near where the lining hem will be, but not to the very bottom. Then, I bent the piping off to the side, along the line of where I will be hand sewing and machine stitched it into place. I like the sturdiness of machine stitching, especially on loosely woven fabrics, and I wanted to also make sure the piping cord was well anchored by stitching.

Here, I've pinned the lining to where I will be sewing it and you can see how the fold will work now (at least, I can). This is where I realized that I cannot finish it yet until I have sewing the jacket hem, which has to be done by hand.

So the bottom edge of the piping is on hold while I finish the jacket hem. And then I will also show what the Threads magazine suggested for the tiny raw edge of the hem. Assuming it all falls into place!

Piping the silk jacket

So cute, so far!

When I sewed (basted) the piping to the jacket, I used a slightly contrasty pink thread in the bobbin so that I might be able to see it and follow that line when I sewed the facing to the jacket. It worked here and there but blended in too much with the fabric to be really useful.

In the end, it didn't really matter because I could following the fat piping cord pretty well with the zipper foot except for one collar corner that I had to unstitch and re-sew. In this shot, I am sewing up the front toward the lapel corner. You might also notice that I have ironed on a but of interfacing to the jacket front (in addition to the facings which is normal). I am anticipating buttonhole issues.

First of all, it looks like a jolly mess at the inside corners, where the lapels meet the collar.

And it IS a mess - you sort of have to feel your way like Yoda. You have to trim some of the excess fabric and piping cord but not TOO much, otherwise the ends will pull out. And don't sew too far into the corners because you could catch more fabric than you want. Better to sew less and then stitch it up by hand when it is turned right-side out.

Here's what the piping looks like down the front. It is turned into the seam allowance 1 and 1/2 inch above the bottom because that is where the hem will be.

Here's one collar corner turned right side out but not yet pressed. Looks okay but...

When you poke around in there, it is clear that there is a big gap where I didn't machine sew too closely into the inside corner. That's the blue handle on my seam ripper, showing through the gap.

Also, at quite a few places along the piping, you can see some of the basting stitches because I didn't press closely enough to the piping cord as I sewed the true seam. I think I am going to sew by machine, a topstitching type of line down the piping to flatten the fabric and to compensate for missing some of these basting stitches.

Continuing with the Chanel suit

Boy time flies when you're doing other things! I have been working on the suit but haven't been blogging. I am taking a course which is now over except for the exam which will be on March 30. The course was every Sunday, all day, for four Sundays. It was about how to be a personal trainer - not sewing related. You can check it out here. Anyway, back to the suit.

I can always tell when I am making progress when the various pieces of fabric suddenly get sewed together and they are not all over my sewing room. I have almost finished the skirt. It is the pattern I make over and over so I can do it in my sleep. Here, I am just showing the zipper, how I pin it on and then baste it.

Especially with loose fabric like this, you want to be careful that the fabric doesn't get rucked up one side and down the other when you sew in the zipper. Because the "stripes" are so close together and because they aren't uniform anyway, I am more concerned with making sure the vertical threads line up than the horizontal. I take the pins out before I sew with the machine, of course.

I sewed just the facings together and did not then attach the lining to the facings. I am going to be putting a thin line of piping between the facing and the lining and will do that after I attach the facings to the jacket. All will become clear soon!

I've attached the sleeves to both the jacket and the lining and draped everything over the dummy. I have also basted the piping on to the front edges and around the collar of the jacket. In the photo, I've tried to tuck the raw edge of some of the piping under, so you get a glimpse of what it will look like.

Here, I've pulled back the jacket to show the lining and the facings draped over the dummy. That sure is shiny smooth satin! I will be making a blouse out of it but later. Next, I will sew the facings to the jacket and sandwich the piping between them into its finished position.

The jacket continued

Today, I added some notes to my pix at Flickr, so if you want to see detail and have it pointed out, click on the pix and then you can see more at Flickr. As you can see, I have finished the skirt - that's the easy bit. I made it shorter than the long skirt that I often make for Winter and longer than the skirt I have been making that hits above the knee cap. Once a woman reaches a certain age, I don't think many people want to see more kneecap, even if mine still look pretty good. Also, it's about proportion.

So I knew going in, because I have made this jacket a few times before, that I was going to have a struggle with the front facings. And I did. As usual, when it came time to pin the facings to the jacket, the facings were more than a quarter inch shorter. But, again I followed instructions and eased the jacket front along the facing edge.

In this photo, I've exaggerated the easing up of the jacket - it wasn't that much ease. I pinned it down using LOTS of pins (so it wouldn't shift and pile up) and then sewed the whole thing.

You sew one seam around the collar and then you sew another seam down the front. These two seams meet at the point where the collar and lapels meet. I never can quite match all those "large dots" and so I have to turn the garment over and see on the other side where I went wrong and then sew it again. It usually works out in the end.

Sometimes, after I am finished the jacket and it's all pressed, I might decide to take a few small stitches by hand to close up the tiny hole where my seams didn't quite meet.

Pressing is everything! I can't emphasize that enough. Once the facings are on, I press the seams open from the wrong side, even though they eventually get pressed back together. By pressing the seams open, you flatten the sewed part along the stitching line and so, when you turn it right side out, it comes out to where it should be, instead of caving in to a dent. If you haven't ever pressed a seam like, this, it may be hard to understand. But if you have done this before, next time, press it open from the wrong side and see how easy it becomes to press it once you get to the right side.

Here is the edge of the lapel, just before I press it. It's a bit hard to see the seam line but it's there and with my fingers, I'm about to "roll" it slightly (or push it into place) just as I come in with the iron. This way, the seam line ends up exactly on the fold.

Unfortunately (and as usual) the front of the jacket has ended up being pulled slightly to the inside of the jacket by the slightly shorter facings. I'm going to let the jacket rest on the dummy for now (tonight's an "Ugly Betty" night anyway) and then fix it with judicious pressing, but I am always annoyed that it doesn't work out better than I think it should.