tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-180078022024-03-26T05:03:51.713-04:00Julia's Sewing BlogIn which I make some clothes, expound on the virtues of the flat fell seam finish, and proclaim "you CAN sew your own clothes, and even wear them in public".JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.comBlogger324125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-55270777074973287702011-09-30T16:58:00.000-04:002011-09-30T17:00:37.510-04:00Vests and the next projectI don't think I posted a photo of the blue wool vest I made. I hadn't decided on the buttons, the last time I posted.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6198467959/" title="DSCN2771 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6015/6198467959_389d340631.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2771"></a>
I went with the same clear plastic button as I used on the <a href="http://juliasewing.blogspot.com/2011/04/blue-suit.html">jacket of the same fabric.</a>
I also made real welt pockets. I love wee, vest pockets!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6198468245/" title="DSCN2772 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6129/6198468245_cd6cace8b3.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2772"></a>
Here is the newest vest (waistcoat to my English readers), made from the beautiful but thick, orange Italian wool I got from Darrell's and from which I also made a jacket (but maybe didn't blog about - I can't find an appropriate entry anyway). In spite of loving vest pockets, I didn't make them on this one because the wool is too substantial and would only cause me more grief than they are worth.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6198984496/" title="DSCN2773 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6008/6198984496_d97fa2e832.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2773"></a>
I used the fabulous printed lining from the pink raw silk jacket.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6198984746/" title="DSCN2774 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6179/6198984746_4e58a31fdd.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2774"></a>
I put in a piece of elastic at the back waist so the garment would have a bit of shape.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6198985114/" title="DSCN2775 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6007/6198985114_87629ee09d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2775"></a>
Next, I have been wanting to make a fitted jacket with a peplum for some time, and I got this Vogue pattern because of the jacket.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6198469791/" title="DSCN2777 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6029/6198469791_f61b99b20f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2777"></a>
I believe I am too short/small to wear the full skirt, as much as I might like it. But the jacket appeals to me.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6198985984/" title="DSCN2778 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6128/6198985984_ff0358c807.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2778"></a>
I got a remnant of some plaid wool at Darrell's this summer but I may have been dreaming in technicolor to think that all the pieces of this jacket would fit onto the fabric, especially as the plaid is about 4 inches on a side! The extra fabric required for the peplum might sink using the plaid for this jacket pattern. I have to go back upstairs now to play around with it all.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com42tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-84613297256735282062011-09-26T18:59:00.001-04:002011-09-26T18:59:12.532-04:00I'm back!I seem to have taken the entire summer off and more. Good for me! You can check out a bit of a holiday we had in New York State, if you are interested, at my Flickr site <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/sets/72157627414243337/">here</a>. I taught at Algonquin College all summer too, but they didn't ask me back for the Fall semester. Then, I got the brainstorm that everything in my life had been leading me to study philosophy, so I signed up for two undergrad courses in philosophy at <a href="http://www2.carleton.ca/philosophy/">Carleton University</a>! I've been biking over to the campus every day, Monday through Thursday, 8 kms each way, and reading and reading and reading. I love it.
Anyway, my "Rule" prevented me from starting a new sewing project, so I had to finish that raw silk jacket I last blogged about in May. So I did.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6186497005/" title="DSCN2510 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6170/6186497005_459d424f7f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2510"></a>
Where I left off was with a problem of a sagging hem. Because of the method of construction suggested in the pattern, I didn't sew the hem up first and just attached the lining hem to the jacket fabric hem and this was the result. I had to go in and sew up the hem - attach it to the body of the jacket. Thankfully, this fabric is so loose and coarsely woven that I was able to stitch it up and have the stitches blend in with the fabric.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6187021268/" title="DSCN2585 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6154/6187021268_6e6c506af9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2585"></a>
Then I saw that the raw edge of the front facing was going to unravel even if I sewed it down, so I decided to attach a wee bit of bias made from lining fabric.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6187021786/" title="DSCN2586 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6172/6187021786_6682e7317e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2586"></a>
I folded the bias around the raw edge and folded under the ends and sewed the whole thing down.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6187022372/" title="DSCN2587 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6170/6187022372_8aa026569d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2587"></a>
I'm aware that only I will see this or even know about it but it makes me satisfied to know that it has been done right.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6186499149/" title="DSCN2589 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/6186499149_96ed28b515.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2589"></a>
I also pick stitched all around the neck edge, to keep the lining from rolling out and give a nice, flat finish.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6187023228/" title="DSCN2763 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6178/6187023228_b9a989dc71.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2763"></a>
Here it is! Very plain in terms of construction, because the fabric is so busy, especially with that gold thread.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6186500061/" title="DSCN2764 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6158/6186500061_51a2a8c9c8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2764"></a>
Because the fabric is so loosely woven, I had to think more than twice about how I would do the buttonholes. I ended up using a broad zigzag machine stitch all around where the hole was going to be, to secure all the loose weave and reinforce the fabric. Both the jacket and the facing fabric have iron-on interfacing backing them all along the front. Then, I cut open a buttonhole and stitched all around the edges with a small blanket stitch. If you click on this photo and go to Flickr and make it as big as possible, you can see that detail. I got some cheap but interesting buttons. I did my usual comparison method of choosing - you pick one button, then choose another and toss the one you like least. Keep doing that until you settle on one. The buttonholes are large enough that I could go get some different buttons and substitute them.
Next, I have a simple vest that I am tossing together, made from a remnant bit of orange wool. I have come to terms with the fact that I really like to wear vests and I am not going to worry about what others may think. Vests are a small bit of extra warmth and they can dress up a casual outfit. The more I have, the better!JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-47761501691107366182011-05-19T15:59:00.003-04:002011-09-26T19:26:39.725-04:00Not another pink jacket!?So there I was, having finished the reversible pink jacket, wondering what to do next. I got out my new Badgley Mischka pattern, thinking I would use it to make the raw silk fabric that I've had for ages, into a Chanel-like jacket.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5737342427/" title="DSCN2434 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2351/5737342427_994e087a7e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2434"></a><br />I even got new fabric, so I could make it the first time without using expensive or coveted fabric and not worry about having it turn out poorly. But the idea of the stand-up collar didn't sit well with the loose, scratchy silk fabric.<br /><br />Then I found myself thinking ahead to the weekend, when we are attending a wedding. It's not like I have nothing to wear! I got out the <a href="http://juliasewing.blogspot.com/2010/01/linen-outfit-and-then-pjs-and-robe.html">linen dress and jacket</a> I made last year and wore at the Pink Tea. I wasn't happy about how high the slit in the back went. At the time, I sewed it down so it wasn't so long. But I felt nervous about what might happen if I bent over - would my underwear show? <br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5737892454/" title="DSCN2431 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5261/5737892454_3cb5c31bf0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2431"></a><br />So I jury-rigged a box pleat over the open slit.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5737892038/" title="DSCN2430 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5225/5737892038_33ae082866.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2430"></a><br />I cut a piece of fabric about 16 inches wide, so it would form a deep pleat in the back. I figured out how to attach it to the existing opening.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5737893056/" title="DSCN2433 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5026/5737893056_ae7809f2cb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2433"></a><br />And now my dress has a nice big pleat in the back!<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5737894036/" title="DSCN2436 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2629/5737894036_b832e7d66e.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2436"></a><br />Something prompted me to pull out my well-used vest pattern and I dug out the little bit of left-over pale blue wool from the <a href="http://juliasewing.blogspot.com/2011/04/blue-wool-suit-finished.html">suit I had just made</a>. I knew when I cut the suit out, that I had just enough fabric for a vest. It might be a bit 80s but I don't care - I really like a vest as it gives me a bit of extra coverage and warmth without being a whole jacket.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5737893690/" title="DSCN2435 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3629/5737893690_dd3d708df5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2435"></a><br />And vest are such fun to make! Almost like baby clothes, because they are small and fast.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5737894448/" title="DSCN2437 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5144/5737894448_beac4defc2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2437"></a><br />I even made real, working welt pockets, just for fun. When I made the suit, I speculated about brass buttons but ended up with clear plastic which I still like. I got out a treasure trove of metal buttons I have to see if they might work on the vest. I don't think the gold works but the silver might. I only have one of the silver button that I do like (third from the left at the top - I used them on another wool vest I wear a lot), so I'll have to go shopping.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6186656811/" title="DSCN2439 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6172/6186656811_32e8ebeaff.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2439"></a>
Making that vest reminded me that I had just enough orange wool to make another vest so I pulled out the wool, the raw silk, the lining I had bought for the silk, and some other pieces that might serve as vest lining. Another embarrassment of riches!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6187179992/" title="DSCN2442 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6165/6187179992_77f8da6f05.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2442"></a>
I got out the first and only jacket I have made with New Look 6619.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/6187179584/" title="DSCN2441 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6153/6187179584_240dbb77ba.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2441"></a>
Tried it on and it fits nicely. So I made a command decision to cut out the silk and be done with it. I got the lining a couple of years ago at <a href="http://www.darrellthomas.com/">Darrell's</a>, specifically with this silk in mind. It is substantial fabric in some man-made fabric (acetate or polyester, I can't remember), and funky fun with the print on it. As I was cutting, I realized it would work equally well with the orange wool for lining.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5737895442/" title="DSCN2440 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2680/5737895442_b8b6465f29.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2440"></a><br />Here is the original plan, with the silk and the printed lining.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5737896632/" title="DSCN2443 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3338/5737896632_3de25ab1cd.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2443"></a><br />And here is the jacket body, on the judy. I have fused interfacing to the entire front and around the back neck edge. The fabric is a loose weave so it will benefit from this. I have already started to sew the lining pieces together. As <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_%22Hannibal%22_Smith">Hannibal Smith</a> used to say, "I love it when a plan comes together."JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-5959210680780639972011-05-13T14:26:00.002-04:002011-05-13T14:30:59.628-04:00Reversible jacket finishedMy pink reversible jacket is done!<br /><br />I am especially pleased with how comfortable it is. It is soft and cozy and unrestricting. I decided in the end to sew on large snaps as fasteners. I had thought of using the hammer-on snaps, knowing they would show on the outside of the garment but when it occurred to me that I could sew them on inside the fronts, I realized they would not show on the outside and so make the reversibility even less obvious. I had some 11 mm snaps but went out and got the biggest sew-on snaps they had - the 15 mm variety.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5714596902/" title="DSCN2416 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3268/5714596902_7da3ebd6a7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2416"></a><br />Going back to where I left off, I did a flat fell of the entire underarm seam (as usual). This jacket has to look as good on the blue side as the pink side. The fabric is a little bulky, being double-sided, but it isn't as stiff as 10 ounce denim so it wasn't that difficult.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5714596600/" title="DSCN2417 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2288/5714596600_d043f0f1e8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2417"></a><br />It's always fun to sew down into the tube of the sleeve and come out at the far end of the sleeve. I put this photo in for a friend in my writers group who sewed his own shirt recently and wondered how flat felling this seam worked.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5714596374/" title="DSCN2420 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2739/5714596374_f12c7ae027.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2420"></a><br />I made a sort of "couture" hem on the back (and then the sleeves). I used a single layer of the pink fabric that I got from the selvages and folded it over the raw edge of the hem. This photo is at the back where the side seams meet and the front bands end. On the right, everything is unfolded and on the left, I have started to pin everything down for top stitching.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5714035635/" title="DSCN2422 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2367/5714035635_655b706005.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2422"></a><br />Here are the cuffs, before and during hemming. Another friend said I should make turned-up cuffs in the contrasting colour, even though I made a point of really limiting the amount of contrast elsewhere on the jacket. I thought she was right.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5714595766/" title="DSCN2423 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3326/5714595766_4c8aea03a3.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2423"></a><br />Here's the jacket, almost finished (I haven't sewed the snaps on yet) with the cuffs turned up. Now that I have been nominated the next president of the board at <a href="http://www.bcaott.ca/">BCA</a>, it will be nice to have another bright pink jacket to wear for certain occasions. Breast cancer has surely appropriated the colour pink and it will serve to promote our charity.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-47022182932287260362011-05-03T16:11:00.003-04:002011-05-03T16:41:02.534-04:00Reversible jacket and other thingsOther things first: My Dad wrote a book some years ago, about his time in Korea in the early 1950s. It is well written, nice clear prose, and interesting. What was especially poignant was the fact that when he was in Korea, he was only 24 years old. It is interesting to think back to when I was 24, and compare our life experiences. He has set up a website now, and will be posting reminiscences in the form of a blog. He can use some traffic, so here is the URL:<br /><a href="http://koreanwarmlbu.wordpress.com/">http://koreanwarmlbu.wordpress.com/</a><br />If any of my readers have a military connexion, you might be interested in the book. It also has U.S. military connexions, as he got some training at Fort Lewis in Washington (chapter 4). That chapter contains an intriguing anecdote about the recycled barrack box he was assigned and which now rests in my garage. In any event, I wanted to give old Dad a plug here, until he figures out how to increase his blog traffic. Go check it out!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5684373399/" title="DSCN2409 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5064/5684373399_206ee1a5bb.jpg" width="500" height="399" alt="DSCN2409"></a><br />Back to sewing! Here is the two-sided denim, all ironed and laid out. I have far more than I need for a jacket and I don't know what to do with the yard or so I have left over. Not a skirt - it is too quilted and bulky for that.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5684942240/" title="DSCN2410 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5223/5684942240_99bd94be7c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2410"></a><br />I am modifying this pattern.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5684374481/" title="DSCN2411 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5101/5684374481_7a9fa52ca0.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2411"></a><br />I used the original to good effect on this jacket that I wore all over France in 2008. But since I wanted to make the jacket truly reversible, I needed to make some changes.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5684943224/" title="DSCN2412 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5068/5684943224_0a5104ae47.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2412"></a><br />I wanted to have a one piece sleeve with no cuff. I also needed the front to be plain so I could turn it inside out. I pinned the two front pieces together so they wouldn't have a seam (or a pocket). I might still add a pocket later, but not until I try wearing it.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5684943684/" title="DSCN2413 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5684943684_99e45f87d1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2413"></a><br />I thought I would use two colours of thread on top and bobbin but it turns out I can use just the pink successfully, due to all the quilting stitching.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5684375941/" title="DSCN2414 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5189/5684375941_733d69b2e2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2414"></a><br />Another reason for a one piece sleeve is to make the flat felling of the armscye easier and neater. Once that is done, I can sew up the entire underarm and side seam in one go and finish it neatly also.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5684376415/" title="DSCN2415 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5021/5684376415_290bb1caf6.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2415"></a><br />I have decided to limit the amount of the other fabric that shows on each side. I could make the band around the front contrasty and have cuffs that turn up and such like but I think it is busy enough without that. I have the single sided selvages that I can use when I hem the bottom at the back or I could let the blue show more on the pink side. I believe I will wear the blue side out more of the time than the pink side but I don't know for sure. I have decided it is a lot more casual fabric that I remembered it being. Anyway, by modifying the pattern it is going together very quickly (fewer pieces) so I'm not investing tons of time in it.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-72103037173260687052011-04-30T08:13:00.004-04:002011-04-30T08:36:45.352-04:00An embarrassment of richesNow that I've finished the red linen outfit, I am on to new things. I have been thinking about this double-sided (two layered) fabric I bought some years ago after I won a gift certificate to spend at Fabricland.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5670446201/" title="DSCN2385 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5307/5670446201_7863cb82a5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2385"></a><br />It's a thin layer of denim embroidered to a thin layer of bright pink cotton. In addition, there are frayed flower shapes on the denim, which actually make it less sturdy. My plan is to make a reversible jacket, even though I will probably wear the denim side out most of the time. But making it reversible will allow me to have a bright pink jacket for the times that I want one. Now that I'm doing a fair bit of breast cancer awareness work, I suppose the pink will come in handy, although I bought it years before I even got diagnosed. I'm planning to use the Butterick 4741 pattern I used for the <a href="http://juliasewing.blogspot.com/2008/04/swap-for-trip.html">bright yellow twill jacket</a> I wore to France in 2008, but adapt it with plain sleeves (no cuffs or placket) and a one piece front so the jacket can be truly reversible.<br /><br />While I was hauling the denim out of the stash, I re-discovered all these other fabrics too! Hence the title of this post.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5671015026/" title="DSCN2387 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5671015026_5652a17ea2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2387"></a><br />Speaking of France 2008, here are four of the Provencal cottons I got on that trip. I think I will make either shirts or skirts out of them. They are not heavy weight fabric and will probably wear forever as shirts. Delicious looking!<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5671015408/" title="DSCN2388 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5303/5671015408_4529ca7f8b.jpg" width="500" height="414" alt="DSCN2388"></a><br />Then there are these lengths of rayon of the soft, challis variety. I bought the two complementary blue ones on the left side and have made a dress out of the larger print already, with accents in the small, geometric print. So now I have to make something with the geometric print. This fabric is actually stiffer than the other rayons and seems to have more dye in it or something. It has a batik look to it. I am thinking I should make dresses out of this fabric, as it is lightweight and drapes well. My only "issue" is that I don't really have much need for dresses - I can get more wear out of shirts. On the other hand, if you build it, they will come. Maybe if I make dresses, I will find places I can wear them!<br /><br />Anyway, all this to say that I am still sewing up my stash - no new fabric for me! And I write this to help myself resist going and getting this green polka-dot fabric I saw when I was getting the lining for the red outfit. It reminded me of this cute shirt dress I had when I first went to law school, that I wore with a pink jacket. That was 1981 folks. Good times.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-70490915771944305892011-04-29T13:01:00.004-04:002011-04-29T13:45:56.324-04:00Red dress success!<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5669080263/" title="DSCN2378 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5308/5669080263_7707d47fe3.jpg" width="353" height="500" alt="DSCN2378"></a><br />I was really pleased with the outfit (and it was comfortable!) and got lots of compliments on it. The Taiwanese folks at the residence were kind enough to tell me that the large gold character probably was "horse" and it was right side up, even if they thought it might be a mirror image. The jewelry I am wearing was created by <a href="http://www.karenmcclintock.com/">Karen McClintock</a> and worked perfectly with the outfit. Each earring is one of the square Swarovski crystals that make up the necklace and the bracelet. I couldn't afford all the pieces and frankly, I hardly ever wear necklaces and bracelets. However, I did buy the earrings and I do wear earrings all the time. They were over $100 with tax.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5670303240/" title="DSCN2375 copy by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5066/5670303240_67ab2789e5.jpg" width="443" height="500" alt="DSCN2375 copy"></a><br />Here is a bit of a close-up. This photo was taken using my little camera by a local photographer who does charity events like this, <a href="http://frankscheme.zenfolio.com/">Frank Scheme</a>. He has posted his pix over at <a href="http://frankscheme.zenfolio.com/p374891879">his website</a>.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5669078325/" title="DSCN2366 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5264/5669078325_cde639f5ca.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2366"></a><br />Let me just back track a little. Here, I am flat felling the <a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/armscye">armscye</a> which can get tricky when the fabric frays or is too stiff. I was lucky that the linen, while substantial, was not that thick. I have done this with denim, so it isn't too horrible. [I went to dictionary dot com and discovered I have been mispronouncing "armscye"! Horrors. I have been saying arm-ski, when it should be arm-sigh.]<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5669078973/" title="DSCN2368 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5221/5669078973_397bdd1dd9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2368"></a><br />I decided instead of just turning up the sleeve hems, I would do a sort of couture hem, even though no one but me would ever know it is there. I used a strip of the black linen...<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5669079357/" title="DSCN2369 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5143/5669079357_01fb99b526.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2369"></a><br />... which I machine sewed to the raw edge of the bottom of the sleeve. Then I ironed it up and hand sewed the folded edge of the black linen to the sleeve.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5669651390/" title="DSCN2371 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5669651390_9dd590eef8.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2371"></a><br />I remembered I had a single large brass/gold button leftover in my collection and it even had a sort of Oriental look to it. It works well.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5669651848/" title="DSCN2373 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5104/5669651848_f6a2ea5c20.jpg" width="341" height="500" alt="DSCN2373"></a><br />I look a little glassy in the flash! But I'm really not. And I see I will eventually have to do something with that dark front tooth. I fell off my bicycle when I was 8, scraping my face down the pavement. The tooth bled into the enamel and made it darker than the others. On the other hand, I am aging all over and getting a bit of a chicken neck and age spots, so I have to ask myself if I care about the tooth.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5669733611/" title="DSCN2382 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5185/5669733611_9439cf814d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2382"></a><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5670303516/" title="DSCN2380 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5107/5670303516_6fd33a7897.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2380"></a><br />Here are a couple of more pix from the event. It is graciously held at the residence of the Taipei Economic and Cultural Ambassador, Dr. David and Mrs. Lin Chih Lee. They even feed us while we are there. We have a silent auction too. Mostly, I like it as a social event that raises awareness but also provides an excuse for survivors getting together. All in all, a success.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-30884312612400232932011-04-26T15:21:00.003-04:002011-04-26T15:50:37.652-04:00Red linen dress and jacketInto the home stretch! I have to wear it in two days, so I'd better be getting finished. On the Friday, some of us going to the <a href="http://www.bcaott.ca/bca-events/pink-tea.cfm">charity event</a> went to choose jewelry for our outfits. A jewelry designer (<a href="http://www.karenmcclintock.com/">Karen McClintock</a>) is showcasing her work at the charity event and some of us at BCA get to wear pieces as models. Our Executive Director found the perfect piece of clear gold Swarovski crystals necklace with matching earrings and bracelet for my outfit. I can wear the bracelet to good effect because the sleeves on the jacket are three-quarter length. I'll try to get photos on Thursday, of the whole ensemble.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658824306/" title="DSCN2349 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5183/5658824306_9a6e8173e0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2349"></a><br />Here's the dress, with the lining and the facing, ready to sew together. I wanted the lining to end up with the wrong side of it touching the wrong side of the dress and the black facings on the inside of the dress where they belong. I was successful!<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658252561/" title="DSCN2351 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5023/5658252561_f87b324ba9.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2351"></a><br />Here, I've sewn them all together and I'm reaching under the facing to pull the individual dress back pieces out through the facings. Looks like a weird glove, but it's not. Also, I didn't realize how hairy my arms are! I should take a loofa to them.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658825276/" title="DSCN2352 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5268/5658825276_038181294d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2352"></a><br />Once I had turned the dress right-side-out, I put it on the dummy to ascertain how I should fasten the side seams together. It all worked out as I had imagined.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658253637/" title="DSCN2353 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5109/5658253637_f393dd8beb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2353"></a><br />I pinned the dress (linen) side seams together and continued pinning down the sides of the lining, catching the black facings in with the lining. Then I sewed all down the sides of the dress and the lining in one go.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658254363/" title="DSCN2354 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5146/5658254363_0ca7c8a8be.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2354"></a><br />Rather than top stitching around the facings, I under-stitched them so they would lie flat and not creep out from under the dress. There's more under-stitching in a minute.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658255021/" title="DSCN2356 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5064/5658255021_9aa2b7d09c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2356"></a><br />Once I got all the pieces of the dress sorted out, I put the zipper down the back, leaving the facings and lining free. Once the zipper was in, I sewed the bottom of the back centre seam on the lining and hand sewed the edges of the lining to the zipper tape, enclosing the raw inside of the dress in the lining. I've also hand sewed the hem but still have to tack the lining to the dress at the one side seam split I left for freer walking.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658255793/" title="DSCN2359 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5189/5658255793_6e0c372d2b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2359"></a><br />I decided I would go ahead and make unlined pockets for the jacket. I had a couple of small pieces left over - scraps really - and just enough for pockets.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658828784/" title="DSCN2360 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5067/5658828784_74ebfb7c5e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2360"></a><br />Ironing those rounded corners can get very tricky without burning your fingers so I hold down the fabric with pins, do an initial press and then take the pins out and press the pockets and pound them with a clapper.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658830114/" title="DSCN2363 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5310/5658830114_d4de5b28d0.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2363"></a><br />After the pockets were sewn onto the jacket, I sewed on the black facings. The jacket is considered to be unlined, but it does have a little bit of lining at the front and a bit around the back of the neck.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658829334/" title="DSCN2362 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5067/5658829334_66c3ba46b6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2362"></a><br />Here, I am under-stitching the jacket facing. I am using black thread top and bottom so it doesn't show any red on the black linen facing. I switched to red thread for the part around the back of the neck. The spot shown here is where those seams meet at the shoulder.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5658258517/" title="DSCN2364 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5141/5658258517_59cb5a0da6.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2364"></a><br />Now, I have basted the lining and facing bits to the jacket at the armholes, in preparation for inserting the sleeves. I have also flat felled all the seams that will show on the inside of the jacket, including the sleeves, even though I wouldn't roll the sleeves up or anything. I just like to know that when I take off the jacket, if someone sees the inside, it will be as nicely finished as the outside. The hard part left is finishing the armscye seams with the flat fell. I've done it before - that's why I know it's difficult.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-68918604539816015552011-04-17T17:31:00.003-04:002011-04-17T17:40:18.690-04:00Red linen dressI have been cutting and cutting and marking and pinning. Now I am sewing.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5628497293/" title="DSCN2345 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5027/5628497293_690425e338.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2345"></a><br />I am doing my usual "assembly line" procedure, sewing all the preliminary bits like darts first. I also have to switch back and forth between red and black thread, because of the facings.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5629080890/" title="DSCN2346 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5307/5629080890_2b4cf3bd0b.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2346"></a><br />Right now, I am taking a break to imagine how I will attach the lining into the dress. The pattern does not call for lining the dress. And it calls for this one piece facing where you have to pull the two back pieces out through the shoulders, in order to turn it right side out. I think I will attach the lining to the dress, right sides together, at the shoulder, and sew the shoulders together with all four layers sandwiched together. Then I will attach the facing as instructed and pull everything out through the shoulders, following the plan. Once I have that accomplished, all the long seams (sides and back) will be free and I can sew the lining seams, right sides together, and the dress seams, right sides together, and then when they are done, the dress should be all lined nicely. It's a theory! I'll let you know how it works.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-5609521560199935662011-04-16T15:39:00.002-04:002011-04-16T16:06:50.558-04:00Figuring out Chinese charactersYesterday, I took a photo of the gold character on the fabric and ran over to my friend May's house and asked her to tell me what it was, or at least, which way was up.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5624856571/" title="DSCN2343 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5264/5624856571_547b26811b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2343"></a><br />The gold one seemed to me to be the most legible of the three large characters, so I thought I'd make sure it at least, was right side up. I had already pinned the dress pattern pieces on the fabric and had made the assumption that the three strokes with the vertical line were at the bottom of the character. May looked at it and said she wasn't sure what it was exactly, but she was pretty sure that the three lines would be at the top of the character, not the bottom.<br /><br />Later, May came over with a book of Chinese characters and I spent some time poring over them. It is possible that the gold character is "biao" or "manifest" (show), although I don't know why that would be on fabric. I think that fabric is more likely to have zodiac characters, or words like "love" or "soup". [This is a reference to one of my favourite shows "Big Bang Theory" and the episode in which Sheldon asks Penny why she has a tattoo of "soup" on her hip. She says it is "courage", not "soup". It is discussed more <a href="http://www.tvfanatic.com/quotes/why-do-you-have-the-chinese-character-for-soup-tattooed-on-your/">here</a> and someone has even posted a GIF of the two characters <a href="http://buruu.ic.cz/Soup%20X%20Courage.bmp">here</a>.]<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5624855193/" title="DSCN2340 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5223/5624855193_1d0f1e126b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2340"></a><br />I couldn't manage to get the pattern pieces for the jacket with the pleat in the back to fit on the fabric, after I had pinned the dress on, even when I eliminated the pleat. So I went with a tried and true pattern, Simplicity 4698, which has lots of smaller pattern pieces that I can juggle around.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5624854811/" title="DSCN2339 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5310/5624854811_5be45f0cce.jpg" width="500" height="406" alt="DSCN2339"></a><br />I managed to squeeze them all on there. At least, I got the main pieces on.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5624855773/" title="DSCN2341 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5183/5624855773_4165de33b5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2341"></a><br />I knew I wasn't going to be able to get them all on, so I bought some black linen for all the facings. I am making the jacket with no collar but it has large front facings. Also, the dress has facings all around the top edges. I toyed with the idea of red linen facings but thought the black would make a nice contrast and then I wouldn't have to match the red. I also bought plain red lining as I have decided it will be best to line the entire dress. It kind of negates the point of linen being worn when it's hot but this is pretty substantial linen and I think the dress will hang much better lined.<br /><br />Finally, instead of a back vent, I am going to make a side slit at the bottom of the dress. I made a back vent the first time I made this dress (last January, also in linen) and I wasn't happy with how it rode up when I bent over. I know I can just avoid bending over, but with the Chinese fabric and everything, I thought a side vent or slit would work.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-8048235771366104172011-04-14T17:45:00.004-04:002011-04-14T18:04:42.567-04:00The red Chinese linenI have decided to whip up a dress and hopefully some kind of jacket combo in the red linen.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5620393066/" title="DSCN2337 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5101/5620393066_b219d41d6c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2337"></a><br />My big problem to start with, is that I don't know which way is "up"!<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5619804001/" title="DSCN2338 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5065/5619804001_6dd7a06af8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2338"></a><br />I remember the student who gave me this as a present, told me that one of the characters was "horse". I think it's that block at the bottom, which means that it is right side up. But I can't identify the other two big block characters - the other red one and the gold one. Does any reader here know? All the little gold characters go both ways, so it doesn't matter for them.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5620392474/" title="DSCN2335 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5107/5620392474_4b3e7e0e03.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2335"></a><br />My other problem is getting a jacket out of the fabric. It is nice and wide and I am not worrying about matching characters and I am sure I can get a short sleeve (if not a 3/4 sleeve) out of it. But it's going to be tight. (Don't worry - I will make sure the pattern pieces are all the same way up, not like they are in the photo!)<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5620392812/" title="DSCN2336 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5263/5620392812_03f91e9119.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2336"></a><br />I'm going to make this Vogue dress again. I made it <a href="http://juliasewing.blogspot.com/2010/01/linen-outfit-and-then-pjs-and-robe.html">last year</a> in linen and wore it to a <a href="http://www.bcaott.ca/bca-events/pink-tea.cfm">fundraiser</a> as it was a hot day. I want to wear the red linen to the same fundraiser this year but I have no idea what the weather will be. It's at the end of April which shouldn't be that hot and it's freezing right now. I have another unlined jacket pattern that is much closer fitting (uses less fabric) so I'll see after I sort things out, which one it will be.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5620392202/" title="DSCN2334 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5021/5620392202_83ab1ff582.jpg" width="500" height="433" alt="DSCN2334"></a><br />Finally, I made some pot holders for the wedding gifts and now I just have to decide how to wrap them. If I can't find the right sized box, I think I will go with the tried-and-true gift bag.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-62610608556317231482011-04-10T18:23:00.003-04:002011-04-10T18:45:48.594-04:00Placemats and stuffI do like making some things for other people, especially when I'm working with nice fabric. I started by tearing all the placemat sides into the same size for the print and the other side.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607302921/" title="DSCN2321 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5228/5607302921_ac0f050374.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2321"></a><br />Then I sewed them right sides together along the long sides, using different coloured threads for the different sides.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607303675/" title="DSCN2322 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5064/5607303675_14b724a1ae.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2322"></a><br />I like to work like an assembly line, so after I sewed all the long seams, I pressed them all open. This made the seam flat for when I turned the mats right side out.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607888426/" title="DSCN2323 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5607888426_96727d557c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2323"></a><br />Once they were right side out, I pressed the long seams flat.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607889504/" title="DSCN2324 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5607889504_7e72ec4fa5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2324"></a><br />Then I pressed the raw edges of the short sides of the mats under so that they lined up for top stitching.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607889894/" title="DSCN2325 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5144/5607889894_bea4e399f8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2325"></a><br />Doing it this way meant that I didn't have to line up ALL the edges and I could get a cleaner line along all four edges for the top stitching. I then top stitched all the edges very close to the seam or the opening (as the case may be). I also stitched in 5/8 of an inch from the outer edge, to give the mats more substance. I decided to go with a flat placemat and not a quilted one. It's a choice. All of my own mats are quilted but I think the flat ones are more elegant.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607890530/" title="DSCN2327 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5146/5607890530_1db7eac452.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2327"></a><br />Here they are. I made all the napkins and used up every inch of that fabric (they are large napkins). Then I made the reversible placemats in the two colours for the two different recipients.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607307267/" title="DSCN2328 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5264/5607307267_a787a9e777.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2328"></a><br />My cousin had asked for a tea cozy so I pulled out one I made but don't really use (I nuke my tea when it gets cold). I thought it would look nicer with a rounded top so I drafted a template for that.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607307777/" title="DSCN2329 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5188/5607307777_1e7205d86c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2329"></a><br />I only needed a little bit of seam binding so I cut a strip of fabric in several diagonal pieces using my self-healing mat and rotary cutter and stitching them together.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607891946/" title="DSCN2330 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5301/5607891946_3a5d7b3b80.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2330"></a><br />This recipient wanted a burgundy colour scheme, so I machine quilted the two fabrics together with the burgundy on what was going to be the outside. It's always surprising how long that takes!<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607308637/" title="DSCN2331 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5061/5607308637_c014c21af1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2331"></a><br />I put a little loop for a pull on the top and stitched the seam binding on one side by machine.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5607309043/" title="DSCN2332 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5266/5607309043_0e87e0349e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2332"></a><br />I stitched the second side of the seam binding by hand, so the machine stitched line would be hidden. I think it looks pretty good myself.<br /><br />I think I'll still make some potholders because I have some scraps left over but I'm already wondering what project to do next.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-88884281413094943572011-04-06T15:57:00.004-04:002011-04-06T16:02:26.394-04:00The blue suitI said I was going to wear it and I did. I asked Peter to take a picture of me just before I left for class:<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5596214280/" title="DSCN2320 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5181/5596214280_af281526a5.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2320"></a><br />I look like I'm holding my breath. But I think I am just standing up straight after all the yoga I have been doing. I see the one sleeve looks like it needs some more pressing, alas. But I have to say, it fit well and the fabric is very light so it was very comfortable to wear and teach in (which involves a lot of arm waving for me). And because it is wool, it was warm and yet breathable. I wasn't actually sure if I was going to like it after I made it but now that I have worn it, I think it will get fairly frequent rotation.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-2534302801400380632011-04-03T21:47:00.003-04:002011-04-03T22:04:00.923-04:00Wedding presentsI have two weddings to attend this summer for people who don't know each other and will never meet, so I am making the same thing for each of them. One asked for placemats and the other already has everything but you can always use some new table linens, so I got fabric enough for two sets and will make them up in one batch.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5586740396/" title="DSCN2311 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5586740396_2075d350c7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2311"></a><br />The younger couple asked for a burgundy colour scheme. Did I ever have trouble finding that colour in the quilting cottons! I was surprised at how little there was of it. After some searching, I found two complimentary prints in a really nice, smooth cotton. It was so nice in fact, I wonder if I should go back and get some of that fabric for myself. I am going to use the larger, abstract "flower" print for the napkins and the smaller print for one side of the placement. I know the main colour is blue but there IS burgundy in the print. I will use the dark, solid burgundy for the other side of the placemats.<br /><br />For the other couple, I chose green for the opposite side of the placemat but everything else will be the same.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5586145925/" title="DSCN2312 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5586145925_88f0984f42.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2312"></a><br />I've already pressed all the napkins, ready for sewing the edges. I'm going to miter the corners. I press over each edge twice, to enfold the raw edge. Then I find the creased corner and stick a pin in it.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5586145381/" title="DSCN2313 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5586145381_e5c2967e03.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2313"></a><br />Then I open out the pressed edges and fold the corner over on the diagonal, twice, to encase the raw edge.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5586738574/" title="DSCN2314 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5586738574_087e140459.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2314"></a><br />Then I fold the long edges back in and secure them for now with a pin.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5586738050/" title="DSCN2315 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5586738050_b90dd5aeec.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2315"></a><br />Here's the mitered corner, ready for sewing. I'll use a zipper foot and stitch right along the folded edge on the "wrong" side of the napkin, using off white thread on both upper and bobbin threads. I like doing stuff like this in assembly line style, where I complete all the same steps and then move on to the next thing. After I finish sewing the napkins, I'll rip the other fabrics up into the placemat pieces and get to work on them.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-86762984088185839492011-04-03T17:22:00.005-04:002011-04-03T17:35:47.137-04:00Blue wool suit finishedI have finally finished the blue wool suit. It didn't really give me grief, but the fabric appears to want to wrinkle when you just look at it, so I don't know how happy I am going to be with it. I'll wear it to teach on Tuesday night and then I'll know better.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5586138439/" title="DSCN2308 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5225/5586138439_d10b380457.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2308"></a><br />I press diligently as I go. This is the shoulder/armscye area with a ham under it, so I can press the seam flat without creasing the fabric.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5586732656/" title="DSCN2309 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5018/5586732656_f07b99d842.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2309"></a><br />Here's the hem going up. You can see how I had a little bubbling of the iron-on interfacing on the facing on the right. I ironed it out but it's annoying when that happens because then you always have to be so careful with pressing afterward. It is for this reason that I sometimes use sew-in interfacing, even though it might be considered old fashioned these days. It depends on the fabric and how fond I am of it and the garment I intend to make.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5586139283/" title="DSCN2317 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5308/5586139283_1707fb0909.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2317"></a><br />And here it is, all sewn and pressed. The bottoms of the fronts want to curl under a little. Perhaps when I wear it, it won't be a problem. I have only made one previous jacket with this version of this pattern - the red wool with the black embroidery - and it doesn't have this problem. But the red wool is more substantial and heavier. I know I always have this problem with the square bottomed version of this pattern.<br /><br />I opted for clear buttons. I can always change them if I don't care for them but they look okay for now. The skirt is a fairly simple a-line with a yoke, which I lined. As I said, I'll wear the whole suit on Tuesday and we shall see. Next, some wedding gifts!JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-5024881685716805792011-03-14T18:10:00.003-04:002011-03-14T18:23:08.080-04:00Wool suitI am doing pretty well in the fabrication of the suit.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5527041181/" title="DSCN2305 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5527041181_3edb867d31.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2305" /></a><br />I decided on this skirt pattern, even though it is a-line and the fabric has stripes. It is a comfortable skirt, easily lined and wears well.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5527632120/" title="DSCN2304 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5297/5527632120_11cdc2f587.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2304" /></a><br />I got all the pieces cut out. The skirt has four gores and two pieces for the yoke and then there's the lining. The jacket has lots of pieces! Each sleeve has two, the back has four, there are facings and the collar, and then there is the lining.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5527632794/" title="DSCN2306 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5138/5527632794_6984e0a103.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2306" /></a><br />I'm making the patch pockets as I did for the red wool of the same pattern (see previous entry). I may have just enough of this blue wool left over for a vest but that will wait until I get these main two pieces finished. I found my "old" (1995) inspiration book for vests recently (I was hunting for printer paper) and suddenly, I am motivated to make more vests. I have quite a few already but I do wear them, especially when I'm wearing a dress shirt with a skirt. A vest adds a layer of warmth without being as warm as a whole jacket.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5527041877/" title="DSCN2307 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5527041877_472fff120c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2307" /></a><br />I have the body of the jacket done and the sleeves are ready to attach. The gores of the skirt are sewn together and I discovered that I had a matching skirt zipper in my stash, so I don't even need to go out for that. The only thing I'll go buy for this will be the buttons - I don't think I have anything that will work, although I will check of course. I wonder if brass or gold buttons would work?JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-26802240144851740762011-02-28T18:21:00.002-05:002011-02-28T21:11:45.570-05:00New project - wool suitI am being a good girl and only using up my stash. I bought all those pieces of fabric on speculation, so it is only fair that I finally sew something with them. The difficulty is deciding what fabric will go with what pattern.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5486755385/" title="DSCN2296 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5486755385_9714b270c6.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2296" /></a><br />First of all, I finished that striped shirt and it looks pretty good. I sewed down the facings with a single line of topstitching. I put it on the dress form for a photo before I realized that I should press the topstitching and buttonholes. You can see a little of the "puckering" caused by the topstitching in this photo but it disappeared after I ironed it.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5487350804/" title="DSCN2298 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5487350804_277f8fa03b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2298" /></a><br />I got out a bunch of my "outfit" patterns, to ponder over and speculate what I would make with them. I'm going to a wedding at the end of May, and it would be fun to have a new dress and matching jacket. I have made the two Vogue patterns with the short jackets with the swing backs and I could definitely do them again. I haven't made the plaid outfit (V1132). I got that jacket pattern for the back on it too, having in mind my "Edwardian" (or maybe it is Victorian?) jacket that I was planning a couple of years ago.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5487351194/" title="DSCN2300 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5487351194_d08ebcd864.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2300" /></a><br />I have these long lengths of fabric in the pale pink with the same stuff in navy, and then there's the bright pink. I laid them out on my ironing board to think about them.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5487351672/" title="DSCN2301 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5291/5487351672_b8eb5ec2ea.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2301" /></a><br />Then I remembered this pale blue (ice blue) pure wool with a thin white stripe, that I had bought at Darrell's a few years ago. It was actually two remnants. I got some matching lining at the time and planned to make a suit out of it. It is nicer in real life, compared to this photo.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5486757513/" title="DSCN2302 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5486757513_584a89fbd5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2302" /></a><br />I had thought I would use this jacket pattern that I have made a few jackets out of in the square bottomed, notched collar views, but only once in the rounded bottom view. The one I made in the rounded bottom view was this one:<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5487352564/" title="DSCN2303 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/5487352564_4a66cbdddb.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2303" /></a><br />It is also pure wool with embroidery on it. Every time I wear it, I feel great and I get compliments. Of course, it is mostly the fabric and the colour, but I like the fit also. For some reason, even though it is virtually the same pattern as the square bottomed jacket, it works much better than the square jacket, in terms of the hem lying flat and the pockets working. It is very odd how that happens. I wonder if it was a fluke, that the red one works so nicely, but I am willing to gamble on the ice blue wool, and see how it turns out.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-54824558071694595052011-02-18T17:33:00.003-05:002011-02-18T17:55:01.960-05:00Wanting to start something newStill working on that shirt. I get so impatient when I want a project to be finished already. I prefer the phase where I wonder what fabric to use with which pattern, to the nitty gritty of finishing.<br /><br />In the meantime, tragedy befell my favourite track pants!<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5457184782/" title="DSCN2289 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5457184782_94e04e695e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2289" /></a><br />I don't know how long I have had these Pearl Izumi pants but it has to be close to 15 years. I love them. They make my butt look small. They fit comfortably over my yoga pants and I wear them to the gym three days a week. Last week, I was zipping down the ankle zipper when it suddenly parted company with itself! The zippy mechanism jumped off the teeth. I can rip everything apart and install a new zipper. But I was wondering if any of you clever sewers out there had a magic fix? You have to get the zipper teeth back into the zipper pull and I'm not sure if I can do that.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5457184438/" title="DSCN2286 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5457184438_c99714b0f5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2286" /></a><br />I finished the cute little blouse with clear buttons. They have a little band of "cut glass" around the edge which sparkles nicely. I haven't worn it yet but plan to, the first warm day. Today was warm and it got up to 10C (50F) but that isn't really warm enough for a short sleeved blouse. And I have a cold so I didn't even get to go out and enjoy the weather much. But soon!<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5457183788/" title="DSCN2284 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5457183788_c74ae43f34.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2284" /></a><br />I decided to flat fell the armhole edge, to contain the ravelly polyester fabric edges. I've been doing French seams for all the rest.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5456577247/" title="DSCN2285 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5456577247_0556acf365.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2285" /></a><br />It turned out well.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5456578447/" title="DSCN2292 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5456578447_8d93e40887.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2292" /></a><br />I put the cuffs on by sewing the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve first.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5456578663/" title="DSCN2293 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5252/5456578663_21e8b04cdb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2293" /></a><br />Then after I sewed up the ends, I turned the cuff to the right side and used the zipper foot to sew the folded edge to just over the sewing line.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5457185852/" title="DSCN2294 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5215/5457185852_b46f1834a7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2294" /></a><br />Here's the finished cuff. I still think I'm going to sew a line of top stitching around the other three sides.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5457185042/" title="DSCN2290 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5457185042_9754d8d1be.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2290" /></a><br />After I turned the facings to the inside down the front, I saw that there was going to be bagging. This might fix itself after I put on the buttons and buttonholes, but in the meantime, I hand sewed a line of basting down the fronts to hold the facings down flat.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5457186044/" title="DSCN2295 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5457186044_10ecf14d7e.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2295" /></a><br />So I have just got buttons and buttonholes to go, and maybe some top stitching.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-54692983637627945962011-02-01T13:25:00.004-05:002011-02-01T13:47:17.837-05:00Yet another blouseIn using up my stash, I seem to be gravitating towards shirts. Someone made a comment here not long ago, and their Blogger link led to a blog project called <a href="http://sewingontheedge.blogspot.com/">Never too many white shirts</a>. While I've got my own issues, I happen to agree with the idea of "no such thing as too many white shirts". But this one is striped.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5408340858/" title="DSCN2276 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5012/5408340858_a997577f74.jpg" width="500" height="397" alt="DSCN2276" /></a><br />First of all, I was rummaging around my sewing room when my husband came by and snapped this picture of me. Silly. The tin man red hat on the far right is the funnel I use to refill my steam iron, perched on the water bottle. On the chair on the left is that gold silk still waiting to be cut. In woodworking, they say "measure twice cut once" and in sewing with expensive fabric, I say "think 20 times, cut once".<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5407732291/" title="DSCN2279 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5407732291_db513ec8ee.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2279" /></a><br />I got out ALL my blouse patterns and stared at them. I really liked that Calvin Klein pattern but it is dated with the gathered sleeves. On the other hand, it is a nice pattern and maybe it's not so bad with gathered sleeves. It comes with French cuffs too. I always liked the high neck band and the possibility of flipping the collar like in the photo, with a tiny cummerbund around the neck. That's dated too, I suppose. In the end, I chose the also old but not as dated Vogue 7332 on the right.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5407731735/" title="DSCN2277 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5252/5407731735_5140a809bc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2277" /></a><br />My fabric from the stash is quite a few years old now, a polyester (cringe) but with a bit of a texture to it. Bright white with navy and red pin stripes. I recall it being on sale (of course).<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5407732611/" title="DSCN2281 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5407732611_52ed0f8189.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2281" /></a><br />I'm making the B view with the stand-up collar. I've made it before so I know it works. I think it'll be a nice addition to my red or navy jackets and skirts.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5407732963/" title="DSCN2282 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/5407732963_9311327f26.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2282" /></a><br />I took the "risk" of cutting it out on folded double fabric. When I have stripes like this, I will often cut the pieces out one single layer at a time, to make sure nothing gets crooked or doesn't match. However, you can see through the fabric enough that you can see the stripes on the second (bottom) layer, so I straightened everything up properly and used lots and lots of pins to hold everything exactly in place and just cut.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5407733447/" title="DSCN2283 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5174/5407733447_b2794a0df9.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2283" /></a><br />So far so good. I've got the collar on. I think I will end up putting a single row of top stitching along the fronts, as the bands are just facings turned inside and the stitching will make them flatter. I might even sew a second row of stitching down the fronts, to hold the facings in place for the buttons and buttonholes. We shall see.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-23460993455400032182011-01-20T13:20:00.003-05:002011-01-20T13:42:37.107-05:00New blouse and no thread issuesI sanded down the throat plate, held my breath and started sewing. It worked! I made a complete blouse without the thread breaking once. I feel a little embarrassed, having ranted so long about it being the needle hitting the bobbin case. I even heard back from Singer, who wrote that they thought it might be a timing issue. But that was after I finished the blouse, so I'm off to the races, I suppose.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5373373354/" title="DSCN2264 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5373373354_fc66c676c3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2264" /></a><br />I've had this pattern for a little while but never made it. It's cute. I rummaged through my stash and hauled out this white stuff that I had bought at Darrell's years ago. It is a weave but it feels a little like a knit (it is textured), and it has a fine silver thread that you can glimpse occasionally. It also ravels quite a bit and is one of those fabrics for which you keep your lint brush always at the ready on the ironing board.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5373373660/" title="DSCN2265 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5373373660_406e30c7d1.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2265" /></a><br />I think it might have been a remnant because it was only through clever cutting that I managed to get short sleeves out of the piece I had.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5373374120/" title="DSCN2266 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5168/5373374120_db4a48b806.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2266" /></a><br />I decided on French seams for the shoulders and side seams, to keep the ravelly ends in. Around the armholes, I trimmed one side (the shirt side) and folded the sleeve-side-seam allowance over to contain the ravelly bits and then sewed that down with a zigzag stitch. Yes, it would be easier if I had a serger! But I don't.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5372775413/" title="DSCN2268 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5164/5372775413_fd0d30f9a2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2268" /></a><br />The front bands are sewn across the bottom, right sides together, to make a nice square finish. But instead of hand sewing the band to the wrong or inside, I sewed it first by machine, wrong side to right side, then I sewed the square bottom, right sides together, THEN I folded it over to the RIGHT side of the blouse (the outside) and sewed it by machine with a topstitch.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5372775843/" title="DSCN2269 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5372775843_c8949917e3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2269" /></a><br />It's a bit faster that way -- no hand sewing -- and it gives it a professional or maybe commercial look. Anyway, I like it and since I learned to do this with all the jean jacket bands I have sewed, I now do it with all the other bands I sew.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5372776363/" title="DSCN2272 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5001/5372776363_9b2188ef10.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2272" /></a><br />I also used the same technique on the bands that hem the slightly puffy sleeves.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5373375044/" title="DSCN2271 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5006/5373375044_8b161f78a0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2271" /></a><br />Here is the puffy part of the short sleeve being sewn to the band and you can see how much the fabric ravels. The green thread is there to gather up the puffy part.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5372776637/" title="DSCN2274 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5372776637_c14c4f7035.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2274" /></a><br />I have yet to go get buttons. This is a single button I have in my button box. It has no mates -- too bad because it is just like what I think would go best with this blouse. The silver thread makes the blouse sparkle a tiny bit but silver buttons would be way over the top. This one is a clear plastic button with a flower motif embossed on it and so it "sparkles" just a little bit. Plus, it is a bit bigger around than most of the shirt buttons I normally use and I think that would suit this fabric, since it is textured and not sleek.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5372777065/" title="DSCN2275 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5372777065_58f491cc62.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2275" /></a><br />Here is the blouse, awaiting my trip to the button store. Cute!JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-59740002457934627162011-01-08T17:49:00.003-05:002011-01-08T18:04:18.737-05:00Tunic shirt done!Whoosh. Well, it wasn't difficult. <br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5337356880/" title="DSCN2261 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5250/5337356880_6b6b84987e.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2261" /></a><br />I usually flat fell my seams to finish them but I didn't want to do that on the light weight silk, so I thought I would use a French seam finish. I did that on the shoulders but zigzagged around the armholes. Then, I was going to French seam the underarm/side seams when I realized that wouldn't work with having vents on the sides. Instead, I sewed a "normal" right-sides-together seam and then ironed the seam allowance under, thus also making the vent edge finished. <br /><br />It was at this point that I decided to re-examine my sewing machine for why it was breaking threads. I have a follower who also works where I shop for groceries and we had a nice long talk this week, about threads breaking and people who fix sewing machines. She said something like, "of course, you have checked the throat plate for snags" and I said "of course". But when I was sitting there, this afternoon, staring at my machine, I realized that I had not looked at the throat plate (the plate with the lines on it for 5/8 seam allowances, where the needle goes through the hole into the bobbin area). So I took it out and looked at it and sure enough! There were tiny metal snags where needles have broken over the years. Well. I thought that the sewing machine guy might have said something to me, especially as when I took the machine in, I said "it is breaking the top thread". So I got a tiny piece of very fine emery paper for sanding metal and spent 10 minutes buffing the snags. Then I proceeded to sew rapidly, using straight and zigzag stitches and the thread didn't break once! I did not allow myself to feel elated yet. Then I made six buttonholes and the thread broke twice! Grr. I am going to sand the heck out of the throat plate again and make sure there is nothing snaggy on it and then start a new project and see what happens. I suppose I could also buy a new one.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5336744419/" title="DSCN2263 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/5336744419_2065af57a2.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2263" /></a><br />Anyway, here it is, a tunic length shirt with 3/4 sleeves. It fits and I am happy with the way it turned out. I'll want to wear it once to be sure but I think I have found the pattern for my gold silk. Now, for the sand paper...JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-291927205876030022011-01-07T17:17:00.003-05:002011-01-07T17:44:20.828-05:00A shirt muslinYes, I am still hanging in here. :) Last time I was here, I had made a shirt. I have now worn it and it fits and wears very well, so that's gratifying. But Christmas was approaching and I wanted to make a few little things for the family, as we were all getting together for two whole days over the holidays. I rooted through my stash and came up with fabric for nine different shoe bags. In Canada, in the winter, you are always carrying your shoes when visiting other people's places (unless you just take off your boots and go around in socks, which is also acceptable). So that was fun and I hope well received.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5242265292/" title="DSCN2244 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5241/5242265292_9feb486948.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2244" /></a><br />I had thought I wanted to try out a new suit pattern, a nice Badgley Mischka Chanel looking thing, so I hauled out some navy fabric and stared at that for a few days. The jacket pattern is only lined in the sleeves, which is interesting. I had thought I might use this pattern for that raw silk I found years ago and which is still hanging about my sewing room. But it is kind of scratchy (with a metallic thread) and I am not convinced any part of it should be unlined.<br /><br />So I stewed some more. Then I put the navy stuff away and folded up the suit pattern pieces and thought some more about the gold silk. If you go back to the August 3, 2010 entry (which isn't that far down because I have hardly been blogging), you will see that silk.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5334346558/" title="DSCN2258 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5087/5334346558_57d04d5f64.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2258" /></a><br />I got some helpful comments about making a tunic length shirt and so I took out my Vogue pattern 2634 and thought about it. I had made some sleeveless shirts with it and discovered that it was too small because it was a size 10 and not my usual 12. However, over the last little while, my husband has been losing weight by eating vegan and I have benefitted by losing a few pounds too and now the size 10 almost fits across the chest. I added one centimetre to the centre back fold (adding 2 centimetres to the total width) and am hopeful this will work.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5333731159/" title="DSCN2260 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5243/5333731159_5b9f39b69d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2260" /></a><br />It is crazy busy fabric but it has an interesting provenance. I went to <a href="http://www.darrellthomas.com/">Darrell Thomas</a> to see what he had in his annual "cat rescue" fund raising sale and found this piece of polyester for only $3. It is the same weight and feel as the gold silk, so I determined I would use it as a muslin for the tunic length shirt in the Vogue 2634. I may not wear it but if it fits and works, I will have made my decision about what to make with the gold silk.<br /><br />In the meantime, my Singer has been breaking the top thread again. It did this some years ago and I took it to the sewing machine hospital and he fixed it. I took it back in October and he gave it a tune up but it was still breaking threads - most aggravating. I hate it when things don't work according to their nature. Then I changed the threads and bobbins and am sewing very slowly and the last few metres of sewing have been okay. But I wrote Singer anyway and will see what they say, if anything. I promise to report, if anything happens.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-22593947594812197912010-11-23T17:38:00.003-05:002010-11-23T18:55:25.419-05:00That shirtWell let's see, it's only been two months since I last blogged here. Good grief. But in the meantime, I ran an election (and lost) and learned a whole lot (and blogged <a href="http://juliaringma.ca/?page_id=69">over there</a>). And I started novelizing the emails I wrote in 1995-6 when I was in London for a year (for <a href="http://www.nanowrimo.org">NaNoWriMo</a>). And yes, I finally finished that shirt:<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5202212473/" title="DSCN2243 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/5202212473_14fb502203.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2243" /></a><br />I can't believe the rookie mistakes I made on it, which came from not being able to tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Only I can tell where the errors are but I do know what I did. I used to sew the collar and cuff facings down by hand but for some years, I've been attaching the whole thing by machine. I describe the process <a href="http://juliasewing.blogspot.com/2007/06/seersucker-shirt.html">here</a> where I attach a collar to one of my husband's shirts. What I did with this shirt was attach the band to the right side (instead of the wrong side) and now I have to deal with the machine stitching being more visible (to me at least) that I would have liked. C'est la vie.<br /><br />So, now I'm free to start a new project, and I don't know what yet. I was making this template shirt in anticipation of wearing the finished gold silk one to my <a href="http://www.bcaott.ca/bca-events/dinner-dance.cfm">charity gala</a>, but as the date got closer, I knew I wasn't going to get it done, so I looked at some of my "old" fancy dress things to see what I might wear instead. I had made a "Chinese" dress quite a while ago (I don't think I blogged about it so it must have been before 2005) and used a new pattern to do it. When I tried the finished dress on, I was shocked that it didn't go over my butt and so I never wore it. I kept it because it looked so cute, in red faux Chinese embroidered satin, and because I had hopes that I would lose ten pounds or so. When the Oriental theme of the gala was announced, I hauled it out of the cupboard, dusted it off (literally) and tried it on, thinking I'll finally give it away to the Sally Ann. Imagine my surprise when it fit! My husband has been cooking vegan for the last few months and I have benefited by losing enough weight that the dress now fits. So that's what I wore!<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5202938732/" title="IMG_4069 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5202938732_ac251eb6eb.jpg" width="252" height="500" alt="IMG_4069" /></a><br />I told people that I have lost ten pounds because of my husband's cooking but that never does come out right. He has lost over 25 pounds. It's cutting back calories of course, but also no saturated animal fat that makes a big difference. These two photos are a good contrast too, showing me tense in one and relaxed in the other. The camera does not love me, I know, but it is interesting how some pix are so much better than others. Plus you get to meet my hubby, although you can do that more at <a href="http://ontcyclist.blogspot.com/">his blog</a> which he kept nicely over the summer when he was biking to work and taking photos. Now that he is on the bus for the winter, he is not taking so many pix.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/5202938452/" title="IMG_4071 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5202938452_9f1a2d7189.jpg" width="500" height="354" alt="IMG_4071" /></a><br />So there, I am mostly caught up to date. Oh yes, I had to take my sewing machine in <i>again</i> to be repaired, as it was breaking threads yet again. Most aggravating and disappointing, as I bought a Singer to have a better quality machine.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-80146914041529445142010-08-22T18:11:00.003-04:002010-08-22T18:32:08.579-04:00The perfect shirt, templateI pulled out sleeve pattern pieces, and front and back pieces from different patterns, and layered them to see how different they were from each other, and maybe try to figure out why some shirts wouldn't allow me to stretch my arms out in front of me.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4917858132/" title="DSCN2232 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4917858132_de12d4b747.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2232" /></a><br />I didn't find anything! The sleeves were practically identical in the shirts that didn't work, compared to the shirts that did work. Same with the fronts and backs. I went to the closet and tried on the shirts that don't work (why do I still have them hanging there, you ask? I ask that too.) The only thing I can think of is that all the shirts that work have a little Lycra in the fabric. And I think it is the width of the back that makes the difference, not the type of sleeve. In other words, my problem is that the back isn't wide enough, which means I am too big for the pattern. I can stand to lose 10 to 15 pounds and there it is - a whole pattern size. sigh.<br /><br />I also looked at the sleeveless shirts I had made (and never worn) from the Vogue pattern 2634 and then I looked at the pattern and slapped myself up-side the head. It was a size 10, even smaller than the 12 with which I was having issues.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4917258729/" title="DSCN2234 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4917258729_24973dca3a.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2234" /></a><br />I decided to go with the McCall's 5630 "perfect fit" pattern and start to modify it. I pulled out the pattern pieces and discovered that I had already made this pattern! <br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4917859352/" title="DSCN2239 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4917859352_236d200e5c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2239" /></a><br />Again, I used cotton with a little Lycra in it. I wasn't all that happy with how big the collar was but the shirt was a pretty good fit otherwise. <br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4917860226/" title="DSCN2241 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4917860226_928dbb0b9c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2241" /></a><br />So what I did was cut the collar back at the points, so it would be a bit smaller. I've done this before with good results.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4917858920/" title="DSCN2235 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4917858920_9d3bb40ff1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2235" /></a><br />I had it in mind that I would use some plain cream coloured fabric I had, but in the process of looking for it (I have boxes and boxes of fabric), I found some nice striped cotton (no Lycra!). It is a little thicker than the silk but I think it will be okay for a template. My plan is to make the body straight, so it is more like a tunic than a shaped shirt. It won't be as long or as baggy as a tunic, but I want the stripes to be straight, all the way up and down.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4917259939/" title="DSCN2240 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4917259939_e58d7d3b51.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2240" /></a><br />When I cut out the front and back pieces, I cut as straight down the stripes in the fabric as I could, eliminating the curve in at the waist. I will still put in the bust darts but I won't put in the vertical front and back shaping darts. It will be interesting to see how boxy and bulky the shirt looks with no vertical shaping.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18007802.post-87557874033708034462010-08-16T17:45:00.001-04:002010-08-16T17:49:37.754-04:00The Perfect ShirtI appreciate the comments on the gold silk. I really want to make some sort of shirt with it but not an entire "shirt dress". The comment about a tunic length got me to thinking about all the shirt patterns I have used of the years and those that I have bought but never used.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4898622339/" title="DSCN2227 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/4898622339_4577ef0f7a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2227" /></a><br />When I started making shirts (as opposed to blouses) for myself, I used one pattern exclusively. It wasn't a true shirt like a tailored man's shirt but it was good enough to make many (dare I say dozens) of shirts over the years. It's the McCall's 8053 on the right. It has a proper two piece collar and nice long shirt tails, for when we used to tuck our shirts into our skirt or pants. It doesn't have a separate band on the front, for both buttons and buttonholes. Instead, it does what many of the women's shirt patterns do and that is, fold over the front into a facing, which flares out at the top and has to be ironed down with each washing. It is also very wide and boxy and goes straight down, with no darts.<br /><br />On the other side of the photo above is Simplicity 9210. This is what I've been using lately (and for some years) to make what I call the "camp shirt" (or I suppose you could call it a bowling shirt). It has a one piece, spread collar. I like the two piece collar because it looks more formal or dressy and can take a tie (I sometimes, used to - rarely - wear ties). The camp shirt also has the facings. It is square but it does have bust darts to give it a little shape. And the bottom is hemmed straight across with vents at the bottom for ease of movement.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4899214576/" title="DSCN2228 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4899214576_7331fd44f0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2228" /></a><br />The next pattern on the right is Simplicity 9877. I started making this very fitted shirt when I started leaving my shirt tails untucked. Despite the cowgirl motif in the main photo, I have used this pattern successfully for quite a few cotton/Lycra shirts and I wear them a LOT. It has a one piece collar that has the shape of a two piece. That means when undone, it sort of looks like a two piece but it doesn't do up (at the very top) square enough to wear a tie. It has separate bands on the front that are interfaced and topstitched and look more like a tailored man's shirt. It also, despite it being so fitted, allows my arms to move. (That sounds strange but I went through a couple of patterns which were sized correctly but for some reason, I couldn't stretch my arms out in front of me.) I have made a few of these shirts with vertical stripes and they work, even with the deep darts in front. But for the gold silk, I didn't want the stripes to be interrupted like that.<br /><br />On the left is McCall's 5630 which I have never used. I bought it because it is billed as "perfect fit" and it has a two piece collar, front bands and a slight shirttail hem. But it has body darts and I am not convinced I want to use those for the gold silk (because of the stripes in the fabric but also, I think the finished look should be a little loose).<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4899215006/" title="DSCN2229 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4899215006_07456d44c5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN2229" /></a><br />Next is Vogue 2634 which I had to have because those women just look so lanky and elegant. I can be elegant (given the right circumstances) but I'll never be lanky. It has a very long, tunic length option, a two piece collar but no front bands.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/4898623807/" title="DSCN2230 by JuliaR, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4898623807_ed179f438d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN2230" /></a><br />Finally, we have a pattern that is very 80s but which I love in spite of its shoulder pads, gathered sleeves and tucks. Of course, it is very Vogue and so the photos look so elegant. I only had one shirt made from it and it didn't have the shoulder pads and I never made the cool neck cummerbund and I really got it for the neck detail. Because I like to wear ties. Plus, it has a French cuff option and one of these days, I'm going to wear cufflinks too. [I just like the look of a tie and cufflinks and I can get away with it because I'm pretty small and fairly feminine (how's that for non-commitment and lack of superlatives?)].<br /><br />What's next for me is to compare pattern pieces to determine why some patterns restrict my arms (I didn't include those patterns above because, in my opinion, they don't work). Then I want to combine the best parts of the patterns that do work, to make a shirt that will be "the perfect shirt". It will have a two piece collar, front bands, hopefully no darts (I'll allow bust darts if I have to) and be loose-ish but not boxy. For the gold silk, I would like a long body but a straight hem, so I can wear it out like a tunic but tuck it in if I want. I will make the first prototype of this perfect shirt using some piece of some fabric I have squirreled away over the years and if it works, the gold silk will be next. I've been mulling over this puzzle for ages. It's very much like the mulling I do when I try to come up with what will be for me, the perfect bicycle. But that's another story.JuliaRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10795348297295716491noreply@blogger.com7