Figuring out Chinese characters

Yesterday, I took a photo of the gold character on the fabric and ran over to my friend May's house and asked her to tell me what it was, or at least, which way was up.

The gold one seemed to me to be the most legible of the three large characters, so I thought I'd make sure it at least, was right side up. I had already pinned the dress pattern pieces on the fabric and had made the assumption that the three strokes with the vertical line were at the bottom of the character. May looked at it and said she wasn't sure what it was exactly, but she was pretty sure that the three lines would be at the top of the character, not the bottom.

Later, May came over with a book of Chinese characters and I spent some time poring over them. It is possible that the gold character is "biao" or "manifest" (show), although I don't know why that would be on fabric. I think that fabric is more likely to have zodiac characters, or words like "love" or "soup". [This is a reference to one of my favourite shows "Big Bang Theory" and the episode in which Sheldon asks Penny why she has a tattoo of "soup" on her hip. She says it is "courage", not "soup". It is discussed more here and someone has even posted a GIF of the two characters here.]

I couldn't manage to get the pattern pieces for the jacket with the pleat in the back to fit on the fabric, after I had pinned the dress on, even when I eliminated the pleat. So I went with a tried and true pattern, Simplicity 4698, which has lots of smaller pattern pieces that I can juggle around.

I managed to squeeze them all on there. At least, I got the main pieces on.

I knew I wasn't going to be able to get them all on, so I bought some black linen for all the facings. I am making the jacket with no collar but it has large front facings. Also, the dress has facings all around the top edges. I toyed with the idea of red linen facings but thought the black would make a nice contrast and then I wouldn't have to match the red. I also bought plain red lining as I have decided it will be best to line the entire dress. It kind of negates the point of linen being worn when it's hot but this is pretty substantial linen and I think the dress will hang much better lined.

Finally, instead of a back vent, I am going to make a side slit at the bottom of the dress. I made a back vent the first time I made this dress (last January, also in linen) and I wasn't happy with how it rode up when I bent over. I know I can just avoid bending over, but with the Chinese fabric and everything, I thought a side vent or slit would work.

The plaid wool suit, continued

So it's still coming along nicely. The front is folded with the "wrong" side over the other - the buttons will go on the left, not the right - because of the angle I was photographing it from. I put a line of basting down each front because the front always curls up and to the inside for no good reason and while it awaits the next steps, the fabric can learn to lie flat the way I want it to. Also, the stance in the picture is higher that it will be (I think) when the buttons are on.

Interesting aside: I just looked up "stance" in the online dictionaries and none of them include this use, which is where the jacket comes to a closure at the top. But I hear them use it all the time on "What Not To Wear".

I also want to comment on the vivid blue and pink showing under the jacket. Although they are "okay", I think I will wear shirts in "ice cream colours" with this jacket. Especially as it reminds me of butterscotch ice cream. Mmm, ice cream.

So here's the way I'm doing the vent on this pattern these days. I want the lining to be as free of the skirt as possible but I don't want it to show at the vent. I fold back the flaps on the lining vent and sew down the one that won't be tucked under the skirt vent.

Then I tuck the one side of the lining under where I am going to sew down the vent on the skirt. I make sure it is loose down the middle back seam, so it won't pull up on the back. Then I pin down the vent.

After I pin the vent into position, I baste it. If you look closely, you can see a line of turquoise thread which is the basting. Then I sew it down from the right side or outside of the skirt.

And here is the skirt, finished. The whole back centre needs pressing again but once it has been steamed and clappered, you won't even notice the vent. I hung it using clothes pins so it would lie flat for the photograph.

Another winter skirt, finished

Here is the back vent on the skirt and in the lining. I want to attach them to each other so that the lining still hangs freely everywhere else and so that the lining doesn't show at the vent on the outside.

I've pulled the lining into place and made sure that it won't be pulled too low and bunch up the back of the skirt. The vent folds to one side and I'm folding that side on the lining under.

I've folded the other side of the lining vent under too, but it won't be sewn and attached under the vent - just folded. I'm pointing the scissors at where I will be sewing the vent at the top of the vent.

Here is the line of basting where I will sew through both layers of the vent and the lining folded under the vent. I have actually done this now and the skirt is finished, ready to wear in the sub-zero weather we are expected to have tomorrow!