Pockets on the raw silk

Pockets! I had forgotten about pockets until I was looking at the photo of the real Chanel jacket and saw them there. So I went and cut out pockets.

I used a template from another pattern and decided to line the pockets and pipe the edges. I'm using the satin for the lining, not the other stuff I'm using for the skirt. I have left a small gap where the lining is sewn to the pocket to facilitate turn it right side out when it's time.

I had to make some piping for around the edges of the pockets. Just sew down the cord wrapped up in the bias tape.

The seam allowances are a tiny bit more than the 5/8 usually used because of the width of the bias tape. I'm not concerned by this little discrepancy. I could always trim it but I think I'll just eyeball it instead.

I have to visualize how the cord will disappear into the pocket (into the seam allowance) once it is turned right side out.

First, I machine basted the piping to the pocket to fix it in place. Then I pulled the lining down to the pocket seam allowance and pinned it together, putting the pins in from the pocket, not the lining side.

Once I had wiggled the ends of the piping out to where they would be sewn into the seam, I sewed the pocket to the lining form the pocket side because I could use the line of basting I had already put on the fabric as a guide. I sewed slightly inside the basting to make sure the piping was not too loose.

I started to turn the pocket before I realized I had to trim the seam allowance. So I started over, trimmed the excess fabric and then turn the pocket through the little gap I had left.

Here's the pocket, turned but unpressed and the gap is still not stitched up. I have been thinking about putting trim on the outside of the pocket, across the top as they do in many of the Chanel suits but I have decided against it, thinking it will be too busy for me. I think the contrast piping is enough. I am still not sure where to place the pockets on the jacket and will have to assemble it enough so I can put it on the dummy and then figure out the best placement.

Continuing with the skirt and jacket

Everything takes twice as long (or longer) when you obsessively finish the inside as well as the outside of a garment.

With the flat fell, each seam has to be sewed three times. On my modified flat fell, I turn each seam allowance under and sew it down on each side of the seam. So, seam plus two fells equals three runs at each seam. I'm not complaining - I like to do it this way - but I don't blog very quickly because of it.

Here I have draped the lining pieces half sewed over the sewing machine and stacked up the other pieces to sew down the fells on the left. I am also using up left-over beige thread and so I have three different spools of thread standing around, depending on what I'm sewing. I can use up the pale beige on the lining but I need the colour I purchased (more of a brown) to do the topstitching that shows.

I am attaching the lining to the skirt yoke/facing, thus making two "skirts" that will be attached to each other around the very top.

With wrong sides together, all the raw bits will be hidden. Not that there are many raw bits, with all my seam finishing. But around the zipper it can get a little messy.

I have made two pockets and may attach them to the jacket. But I can never seem to get the pockets completely square to the warp and woof, unless I am using striped fabric or I obsessively pull threads along one side. I'll have to think about whether I do use these. I suppose I can always pull threads on some fabric I have left over.

Jacket about half done

Just a little update, as I won't get back to this until tomorrow. I am forging ahead with the regular sewing of pieces together and thought I would show the pockets. I can't believe how bad the colour reproduction turned out on this one. Yuck.

In this photo, you can see how I stitched around the pocket "bag" before attaching it to the jacket front. I do that so I can get the proper shape on the top stitching.

This photo shows the true colours and how the jacket is about half done. Unless I turn the collar up this way, you won't see the blue but I will know it is there and that makes me smile. Next step is to put the sleeves on.