I usually flat fell my seams to finish them but I didn't want to do that on the light weight silk, so I thought I would use a French seam finish. I did that on the shoulders but zigzagged around the armholes. Then, I was going to French seam the underarm/side seams when I realized that wouldn't work with having vents on the sides. Instead, I sewed a "normal" right-sides-together seam and then ironed the seam allowance under, thus also making the vent edge finished.
It was at this point that I decided to re-examine my sewing machine for why it was breaking threads. I have a follower who also works where I shop for groceries and we had a nice long talk this week, about threads breaking and people who fix sewing machines. She said something like, "of course, you have checked the throat plate for snags" and I said "of course". But when I was sitting there, this afternoon, staring at my machine, I realized that I had not looked at the throat plate (the plate with the lines on it for 5/8 seam allowances, where the needle goes through the hole into the bobbin area). So I took it out and looked at it and sure enough! There were tiny metal snags where needles have broken over the years. Well. I thought that the sewing machine guy might have said something to me, especially as when I took the machine in, I said "it is breaking the top thread". So I got a tiny piece of very fine emery paper for sanding metal and spent 10 minutes buffing the snags. Then I proceeded to sew rapidly, using straight and zigzag stitches and the thread didn't break once! I did not allow myself to feel elated yet. Then I made six buttonholes and the thread broke twice! Grr. I am going to sand the heck out of the throat plate again and make sure there is nothing snaggy on it and then start a new project and see what happens. I suppose I could also buy a new one.
Anyway, here it is, a tunic length shirt with 3/4 sleeves. It fits and I am happy with the way it turned out. I'll want to wear it once to be sure but I think I have found the pattern for my gold silk. Now, for the sand paper...
I just love that print!! Good luck with the breaking thread mystery.
ReplyDeleteThanks Debbie! I'm not convinced about the print but the fabric was a dead ringer in terms of texture and weight for the silk. They'll see me coming, that's for sure.
ReplyDeleteThis is the first time I've visited your blog. I suppose you've already tried a new needle and new thread, too? Those have been my culprits in the past. Trying to save money while not really doing so. Hope you're able to find out what it is. I hate not having my machine work right!
ReplyDeleteWelcome to my blog, Julie. Great name, too! ;) Yes, I have gone through needles galore. And I stopped buying cheap thread years ago. But those are good suggestions. There is a shiny spot in the bobbin case, where the needle has struck the side over the years and I have a feeling that may be the culprit. But I have my fingers crossed that sanding down the throat plate might just be the main key. I'm cutting out another blouse and will be sewing it soon, so we shall see.
ReplyDeleteJulia--I came across your blog as I was searching for a way to make a French seam as an underarm/sleeve/ side seam on a man's shirt, with a vent or "slit" at the lower edge. I noticed you had the same dilemma, and said you thought it could not be done. (Your Tunic Shirt) I was discouraged, because I did not want to do a flat-fell seam here on flimsy rayon fabric. So I got to thinking and made a sample and I was able to get a nice, finished vent at the lower edge of this seam in the sample I made. I'll try it on my actual fabric (a vintage bowling-type shirt, or "Charlie Sheen" shirt) tomorrow when I am fresh. But my sample looks very nice, and is a French seam with a nice, flat vent. If you like, I can send you instructions on how I did it. It will have to be a hand-drawn sketch scanned to your email. Hopefully the shirt will be complete soon, and I will also have a picture of that to send as well. My email is ksbappa@gmail.com. Put something in subject line so I can recognize, I generally do not open unknown emails. Happy sewing!!
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